Rum

We felt so fancy and elegant as children, sipping “virgin” strawberry daiquiris out of beautiful glasses. I still enjoy these without the rum, but when I do add it, I always choose a flavored rum for the delicious tropical fruit flavor it adds.

One of the highlights in my culinary career was cooking for a Caribbean and Low-Country Food Festival I catered for Johnson & Wales University at the Middleton Place plantation outside of Charleston, South Carolina. We had just won the International Jamaican Jerk Style/Southern Barbecue Cook-Off, and we were invited to cook the Caribbean portion of the menu. Two 120-pound whole pigs were prepared for the event; one was cooked in the Jamaican jerk style, and the other was prepared Cuban-style with a sour-orange marinade. Once the guests were seated, the pigs were carried from the cooker like ancient royalty in a sedan-chair procession and presented at the head of the buffet. This was the only dinner I have ever attended where the main course, not the chef, got the standing ovation. I love the intensity and acidity of a sour-orange marinade, and over the years I have tried many ways to get these wonderful flavors dispersed throughout very thick cuts of meat. After much experimentation I’ve found that two solutions work best: a generous soaking with sour-orange flavors throughout the cooking process or a simple sour-orange injection. With apologies to traditionalists, I chose the latter.

Whip up one of these pretty pastel shakes for a casual dessert or any time you finish supper wishing you had made dessert. We suggest Chai Shake after a curry, Vanilla Rum Milkshake after West Indian Red Beans & Coconut Rice (page 69), Pineapple Ginger Shake after Asian Braised Fish with Greens (page 160)—you get the picture.

Warm, luscious bananas soaked in rum—a little taste of tropical paradise.

We used pears in this ice cream’wich, but many other fruits would work well, too, such as apples, figs, or peaches. Because the fruit is poached, it won’t harden in the same way that raw fruit does when it is frozen. And not to worry if you do not like rum: you can simply leave it out of the ice cream recipe, yielding a simple and tasty vanilla ice cream.

This coconut cream is light and fluffy, but it has a truly rich body, which comes from the coconut curd base. You can use this cream—or even the curd on its own—as a filling for tarts and top with fresh berries, mango, or papaya. Serve the leftover curd on toast or toasted brioche.

Who doesn’t like rum and Coke? And those flavors make a great ice cream.

I always thought it was a shame that you had to burn the alcohol off when you flambéed bananas, so I’ve reintroduced the rum in a different form—in ice cream. Peanut Phyllo Crisps add the crunch you need to play off the soft bananas and ice cream.

You won’t find any caramel sauce like this at your local market. Letting the sugar cook until it reaches a deep amber color gives this sauce an incredibly rich flavor that really holds up in your shake. Adding a few tablespoons of dark rum will only intensify the flavor, but if you are serving it to kids or alcohol isn’t your thing, leave it out . . . the sauce will still be amazing.

This might be one of the more esoteric shakes in this book, but I hope you find it intriguing, not off-putting. The extra step of roasting the pineapple is well worth your time. Roasting concentrates the pineapple’s flavor and intensifies its sweetness as the heat of the oven caramelizes the fruit’s natural sugars. Tart lemon sorbet is added to balance that sweetness and for its icy texture. Using pineapple juice gives this shake a depth of flavor and refreshing quality that milk wouldn’t provide.

This milkshake is so simple but so incredibly amazing and rich. I put this on the menu at Bobby’s Burger Palace and I have one every time I am there.

This recipe works for chocolate tart crusts, chocolate sugar cookies, and as a cheesecake base. You can keep a batch in the freezer to be ready for any dessert challenge that arises. Although the method given below is safer in terms of overmixing, if you are in a rush, toss all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse a few times until you get a smooth dough.

These cookies are familiarly fudgey like a good brownie, cute because of the crinkles or “faults” that cut through their warm sugary surfaces, and they travel well to picnics or friends’ houses. Pile them up in a mason jar and tie them with a bow.

Silicone baking pans bake evenly and won’t rust after you wash them. They are pricey, but as a special gift for your friend or yourself, splurge! I buy a nice silicon muffin pan, use fancy baking cup liners, load them with this milk chocolate mousse, then wrap the pan up tightly with plastic wrap, tie it with a big bow, and freeze it. When you are ready to gift it, you’ll give the satisfying sweetness of a softening mousse, the convenience of muffins, and a reusable piece of kitchenware. This is an all-purpose mousse that can also be served in a dish with cookies as a simple satisfying dessert. Note: Agar is a thickener available in health food stores. It is a substitute for gelatin and suitable for vegetarians.

This recipe offers treasures of the Caribbean “sugar islands”: chocolate, sugar, and rum. It’s a classic French buttercream using a cooked sugar technique, pâté à bombe, to blend and aerate the eggs and sugar, which creates incomparable richness. Or maybe it’s the butter. Or maybe it’s the chocolate. You get the picture—it’s rich! One batch makes enough to ice one 2-layer cake, but if you like generous layers and rosettes, double this recipe. Allow time to chill the buttercream. If soupy, chill it for another half hour. If stiff, heat it over a saucepan of hot water, then whip it. For children, you can omit the rum.