Pastoral Tacos
If you haven’t eaten tacos in Mexico City, then as far as I’m concerned, you haven’t really eaten tacos. Countless joints there specialize in tacos al pastor, carved off a spit like the shawarma from which it is derived, but with the delectable addition of pineapple (and with tortillas, naturally, instead of pita). They usually make a bit of a show of it, too: At El Califa, my sister and I watched the taco guy hold a plate with two tortillas on it in one hand, then use a long knife in the other to swipe off a chunk of pork, which fell right onto one of the tortillas. He quickly reached higher and sliced off a bit of the pineapple ring that was sitting on top of the spit, catching the fruit, too, on the tortilla. One of El Califa’s other specialties is a steak cutlet taco: The single piece of meat is longer than the tortilla, but it’s so tender it folds up inside and you can bite through it with your teeth. I like to combine the two ideas into one: using a thin cutlet of pork that I quickly marinate in pineapple juice and combining the traditional garnishes of onion, cilantro, pineapple, and lime into a quick salsa.
If your pork is too firm or chewy to easily fold up whole in the tortilla, feel free to cut it into strips or chunks.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Place each pork cutlet between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound to a thickness of about 1/8 inch. (If you are using a boneless center-cut pork chop, first steady it flat on the cutting board with one hand and then, with the knife parallel to the cutting board, slice it into thirds horizontally. Then place each third between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound to 1/8 inch thick.)
Step 2
Combine the vinegar, pineapple juice, pimenton, chile, salt, and pepper in a large resealable plastic food storage bag; mix well, then add the cutlets. Press the air out of the bag and seal; massage the marinade into the meat. Let sit for at least 10 minutes or up to an hour, while you make the salsa and warm the tortillas.
Step 3
Combine the pineapple, cilantro, shallot, and jalapeño in a small bowl. Squeeze the lime juice into the bowl. Add salt to taste and mix well.
Step 4
Warm the tortillas (see page 84) and wrap them in aluminum foil to keep warm.
Step 5
Pour the oil into a large skillet set over medium-high heat. When it starts to shimmer, remove the cutlets from the marinade, shake off any excess, and place in the skillet. Sprinkle lightly with a little more salt, then cook until lightly browned on one side, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn them over, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cook until browned on the other side and just cooked throughout, another 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the cutlets rest for a minute.
Step 6
Lay the tortillas out on a plate. Place one cutlet on each tortilla. Top each with pineapple salsa, and eat.
