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Ab Ghooshte Fasl

A measure of the importance of soups (ash) in Iran is that a cook is called an ash-paz, which means “maker of soup.” This substantial soup with a great mix of beans makes a good winter meal. In Iran it is served with bread and bunches of fresh herbs such as cress, mint, cilantro, and also scallions, radishes, and pickles. It is the type of soup you will find in the bazaar at the earliest hours of the morning, dished out for breakfast from huge cauldrons in which a sheep’s head and feet have given their special richness, and where all the vegetables in season find their place.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 6-8

Ingredients

1/3 cup dried white haricot or navy beans, soaked overnight
1/3 cup yellow split peas, washed
1/3 cup black-eyed peas, washed
1/3 cup large brown lentils, washed
1 pound lamb (shoulder or shank) or stewing beef, whole or in large pieces
1 large onion, thickly sliced
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
3/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
4 tomatoes, skinned
1 large eggplant, cubed
2 green bell peppers, cut into small pieces
4 small potatoes, peeled and halved

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the drained beans and the washed peas and lentils in a large saucepan with the meat and onion and about 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil, remove the scum, and simmer for an hour or more, until the meat and beans are very tender, adding salt, pepper, and spices when the beans have begun to soften.

    Step 2

    Take out the meat, cut it up into small pieces, and put it back into the pan. Put in the vegetables and cook 1/2 hour more, or until the vegetables are done, adding water if necessary.

  2. Variation

    Step 3

    You may add a handful of dried apricots or pitted prunes at the same time as the meat.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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