Gratin

Nice, being by the sea, offers interesting fish dishes. One of these is poutargue, made with dried and smoked roe, which you will find in some delicatessen shops. The roe should be grated or finely chopped. To every 2 cups add 1 cup chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 cup finely chopped onion, a dash of lemon juice and enough olive oil to blend all. Another dish from the sea is raïto or rayte. This is traditional on Christmas Eve throughout Provence. It is reminiscent of other fish stews, including the chioppino of California.

All you need to complete the meal is a simple green salad and your favorite Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon.

(TORTINO DI PATATE ALLA PARMIGIANA) Gratins made from potatoes and other vegetables have long been a part of the country cooking around Parma. Here's a rich one that takes advantage of a star ingredient: Parmesan cheese. The dish is often served during Lent or on other meatless days.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Frozen artichokes simplify this recipe, which is inspired by one from cookbook author Paula Wolfert.

A rich and elegant special-occasion dish.

Southwestern flavors and Monterey Jack cheese come together in this rich, creamy gratin.