Gratin

No other vegetable signals spring like asparagus. In this recipe, it makes for a rich, creamy side dish that's beyond delicious. We love it with a simple roast chicken.

Use a mandoline to cut the parsnips easily.

In this easy dish, a little bit of almondy custard dresses up fresh fruit, making it special for company while preserving its pure goodness.

We weren't sure what would result from pouring an egg-and-yogurt mixture over a gratin of potatoes. The answer? A thin layer of tangy custard that just melts into the gratin. Like a much more sumptuous version of the sour-cream-topped baked potato, this dish is a welcome change of pace.

We think of this gratin as a vegetable-driven version of everyone's favorite, mac and cheese. The nutty, sweet undertones of cauliflower are particularly suited to meld with the tangy, salty Cheddar and the spicy horseradish.

A creamy white cheddar cheese sauce makes this gratin luxurious enough to serve as a vegetarian main course.

Fresh black truffles are worth the splurge. They are available at some specialty foods stores and from Urbani Truffles (215-699-8780; urbanitruffles.com). Black truffles in jars are sold at specialty foods stores and Italian markets; the most flavorful are European winter black truffles.

Because Gruyère is somewhat salty, use unbrined roast turkey in this dish. Also, and old-fashioned turkey gravy (no cider or soy sauce) will enhance the gratin best.

Great-tasting ingredients add up to a thoroughly satisfying meatless entrée that's perfect for a cool autumn evening.