Smoke

This variation on the traditional method has never failed me. I learned it at the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue event more than two decades ago from an Arkansas cook. It's simple. Place a partially smoked pork butt in a paper grocery bag and finish cooking by slow smoking it. The paper absorbs some of the grease and keeps the meat from drying out. People ask me, "Won't the bag catch on fire?" The bag will be saturated with pork fat, but a bag fire hasn't happened to me yet. For true Southern pork butt, go with hickory wood. However, I like to use fruitwood—maybe even peach or cherry—mixed with pecan. Because pork butt slow smokes for 6 hours, this is not a recipe to try on a gas grill. Suggested wood: Hickory or a combination of apple, peach, or cherry and pecan

Trout rule the mountain streams of America. I remember the fantastic flavor of freshly caught trout in Wyoming cooked over a campfire. They were so delicious, we had trout for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. This recipe echoes that experience, sans the stinging nettles and porcupines. If you like, you could also stuff the trout with an herb or horseradish butter, fresh lemon slices, or a cornbread stuffing. As for the smoking, for trout I prefer the sweeter smoke flavor of alder or even grapevine, which you can gather from the wild or buy as prepackaged wood chips. I use them dry in this recipe, as the trout doesn't take long to smoke. This recipe works for any whole, cleaned fish; the rule of thumb for smoking is 30 minutes per pound at 225° to 250°F.

If you can smoke bake a casserole, then you can also smoke roast. Smoke-roasted root vegetables take on smoke flavor at a higher temperature, generally around 350°F. If you like roasted vegetables in the oven, you'll love these. As an alternative method, you can also partially slow smoke vegetables, then transfer them indoors to your oven to finish roasting and crisping at a higher temperature. Substitute other root vegetables, such as parsnips, beets, turnips, and rutabagas, if you like. This recipe works well in a gas grill, too.

Bruising the spices means to almost—but not quite—crush the whole spice seeds or pods. By pressing on the spices with a pestle or the side of a knife, you release the natural oils, making the seasonings more flavorful.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Karmel's Web site, girlsatthegrill.com. This is the dish that started my love affair with grilling and barbecue. Growing up a stone's throw from Lexington, North Carolina—the World barbecue headquarters—I always visited a barbecue joint to get my pork fix. We'd either eat it there or take it home in quart containers to reheat in a silver chafing dish. After college, I said good-bye to the barbecue joints and moved north. If I was going to enjoy pulled pork more than once or twice a year when I went home, I just had to teach myself how to make it. Here is my tried-and-true version made most often on a gas grill, no less!

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Karmel's Web site, girlsatthegrill.com . On the road to Lockhart, Texas in the Hill Country outside of Austin, I discovered barbecue heaven where smoke meets beef. This slow-cooked brisket is crunchy and almost burnt on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside. After tasting a delicate 2-pound portion, I got some tips from the pit master himself and promptly went home and created my own version. The simple salt-and-pepper Lockhart Dry Rub is favored by the old guard and the Tricked-Up Brisket Rub is akin to what some of the younger up-starts in the barbecue world are doing to add a little more dimension to their burnt ends. Both rubs are great for slow-cooking and smoking brisket. You only need to make one rub to make this brisket so just pick whichever is more appealing to you. Be sure to purchase an untrimmed brisket. The meat needs all of the fat cap to keep it moist during the long cooking time.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from The Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition, by Steven Raichlen. To read more about Raichlen and barbecue, go to our feature The Best Barbecue in the U.S.A. It never fails to amaze me how one simple idea can give birth to so many great regional variations. Consider ribs. The pork rib is one of the most perfect morsels ever to occupy a grill. The meat is generously marbled, which keeps it moist during prolonged cooking. As the fat melts, it crisps the meat fibers and bastes the meat naturally. The bones impart a rich meaty flavor (meat next to the bone always tastes best), while literally providing a physical support—a gnawable rack on which to cook the meat. Yet depending on whether you eat ribs in Birmingham or Kansas City, or Bangkok or Paris for that matter, you'll get a completely different preparation. I've always been partial to Memphis-style ribs. Memphians don't mess around with a lot of sugary sauces. Instead, they favor dry rubs—full-flavored mixtures of paprika, black pepper, and cayenne, with just a touch of brown sugar for sweetness. The rub is massaged into the meat the night before grilling, and additional rub is sprinkled on the ribs at the end of cooking. This double application of spices creates incredible character and depth of flavor, while at the same time preserving the natural taste of the pork. Sometimes a vinegar and mustard based sauce—aptly called a mop sauce—is swabbed over the ribs (with said mop) during cooking; I've included one here, for you to use if you like. You can choose any type of rib for this recipe: baby back ribs, long ends, short ends, rib tips—you name it. Cooking times are approximate. The ribs are done when the ends of the bones protrude and the meat is tender enough to pull apart with your fingers. I like my ribs served dry, in the style of Memphis's legendary barbecue haunt, the Rendezvous. If you want to serve them with a sauce, you'll find a number to choose from in this chapter.

The simple herb, lemon, and garlic sauce is called salmoriglio in Sicily.

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from Extreme Barbecue: Smokin' Rigs and Real Good Recipes, by Dan Huntley and Lisa Grace Lednicer. To read Epicurious's review of the cookbook, go to Summer Cooking Guides. Smoking whole fish on the grill is deliciously rewarding, and if you haven't tried it before, you'll be surprised at how easy it is — and quick, compared to pork or chicken. There's no brining or curing here — essentially, the fish is "baked" in a tantalizing chamber of wood smoke. Hickory will flavor the fish strongly; you may prefer a milder wood such as oak. Feel free to substitute bass, flounder, catfish, bream, crappie, or whatever good-tasting fish you have available.

Though many people see smoking as a process meant for professionals, or at least for doing outdoors, this procedure—done mostly in a wok—is simple and produces a mean smoked duck. Try thin slices over a salad, or make smoked-duck sandwiches for a picnic. When smoking, be sure to seal the foil tightly to keep the smoke from infusing more than just your duck.

Planking is one of Ted Reader's favorite ways to cook because it simultaneously bakes, grills, and smokes the meat or fish. It's an especially good technique for barbecuing fish, which has a tendency to flake and fall apart on the grill. For this recipe, begin soaking the cedar plank one day ahead. what to drink: J.L. Wolf 2003 Riesling, Wachenheimer Belz, Pfalz, Germany ($20).

Brush thick slices of country-style bread with olive oil and grill until golden, about two minutes per side. Serve alongside steaks. What to drink: Beckmen Vineyards 2000 Syrah, Estate, Santa Ynez Valley, or another light-bodied Syrah.

Escalivada, from Catalonia in northeastern Spain, is a mixture of vegetables roasted in the ashes of a slow fire. Plenty of wood chips add a smoky nuance here; the finished vegetables are offered at room temperature in a roasted-garlic vinaigrette.

While our directions call for lighting the grill with a charcoal chimney, feel free to use whatever method you prefer.

If you have a gas grill and want great smoky flavor, soak hickory-wood chips in water one hour. Drain well; place chips in a disposable aluminum pie pan directly over flames (or over lava rocks if they are part of the grill's design). Allow chips to begin smoking, then grill vegetables until tender. This recipe is an accompaniment for Spicy Barbecued Rib-Eye Steaks with Smoked Vegetable Salsa .

Pork shoulder bacon may not get quite as crisp as belly bacon, but it has a great taste and a meaty texture. Even if you have a thermometer for your grill, you'll still need an instant-read — the grill thermometer won't register low enough to monitor the cold-smoking.

I prefer pork loin from the rib end of the loin because it has a little more fat and a better flavor.