Smoke

These mushrooms and tomatoes make great side dishes and add zing to sandwiches, salads, and risottos. But we think they're best tossed with pasta and a little extra-virgin olive oil and chopped flat-leafed parsley or basil leaves.

In this recipe, a "dry rub" of brown sugar, pepper, paprika and salt flavors the meat before it is cooked, and a vinegary "mop" is brushed onto the pork to add more taste as it is smoked. Once cooked, the meat is "pulled," that is, shredded into slivers that are just the right size for piling onto a bun. The sandwich —drizzled with a bit of the vinegary sauce, which cuts the richness of the meat — is the ultimate in Carolina barbecue. Cook this in a smoker or a barbecue that has been converted to a smoker.

Slowly cooked ribs glazed with a spicy-sweet tomato-based sauce are the signature of K.C. barbecue. If you don't have a smoker, cook the ribs in a barbecue that has been converted to one. It may be necessary to cut the racks into four- to five-rib portions so that they all fit on the grill at once.

To make these slow-cooked ribs, the barbecue is used like a smoker. The instructions given here are for a standard 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different brands of barbecues, and it may be necessary to cut the rib racks into four- or five-rib portions so that they’ll all fit on the grill. The only special equipment needed is a charcoal chimney, which is available at most home and garden stores and hardware stores.

Texans like their barbecue spicy, in the tradition of the Southwest, which is chili pepper country. For this recipe, you'll need to order a U.S.D.A. "choice" grade, packer-trimmed brisket: That's a brisket with none of the fat cut off. Before being cooked, the meat is seasoned with a dry rub; during cooking, it is brushed regularly with a beer-based mop. You'll need to use a smoker for the brisket (a converted barbecue won’t maintain the very low heat required), and to get the most authentic Texas flavor, seek out the natural lump charcoal specified in the recipe; it's available at barbecue stores, some natural foods stores and some supermarkets.

At the Marriott Downtown, in Anchorage, chef Patrick Hoogerhyde serves this as a starter, but we like it as a main course.

Because the heat on individual grills varies, cooking times will range from about 30 minutes to one hour. Be sure to regulate the barbecue so that the wood chips smoke and the briquettes burn but do not flame. When the salmon is ready, it will have a nice firm texture and a lovely sweet glaze. For drinks, offer coffee, orange juice and mimosas.

The instructions given here are for a standard 22-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different types of barbecues.