Smoke

Back ribs are sometimes referred to as loin back ribs but are most commonly called baby back ribs. The baby back rib is cut from the upper section of the rib cage below the spine and the loin muscle of the pig. A slab of baby back ribs can have as many as 15 bones (the number of bones in a pig’s rib cage). This long thin cut of pork has many defining characteristics. The bones are no thicker than a finger and are slightly curved. Because of the small bones there is generally more meat between each bone than on spare ribs. Baby back ribs are the leanest pork rib type, with a less pronounced pork flavor and a finer and denser texture. Pineapple Sweet Ribs utilize a sweet rub and a fruity liquid seasoning, followed by a sweet glaze. The key to a multi-step rib is to layer the flavors, creating complex tastes without overpowering the pork flavor. This strategy worked at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo in 2004, when the judges declared this rib recipe the winner of this world championship event.

Though the introduction of ribs to Big Bob Gibson’s menu was enthusiastically embraced by the locals, the recipe itself was, well, pretty bare-bones—simply a full-size sparerib seasoned with salt and pepper and slow-smoked. In 1979, Don McLemore offered a bonus to any employee who could improve on Big Bob’s ribs. During the next week the rib usage went up tenfold but profits took a nosedive, as the extremely well-fed pit workers experimented with different preparations. When the smoke cleared two weeks later, Steve Bullard earned a dime raise with this recipe.

Over the years the rib recipe at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q has changed many times, running the gamut from full-size spare ribs to today’s meaty St. Louis–cut spare ribs. The seasoning and the sauce have evolved as well, moving from salt and pepper to a complex seasoning blend and a finishing touch of our own championship red sauce. Spare ribs are cut from the lower portion of the rib cage below the back ribs, including a portion of the breast bone. The bones of the spare rib vary in size and length, ranging from short and round to long and flat, and they have less curvature than baby back ribs. The meat contains a high percentage of fat and thus yields a tender finished product. The term “St. Louis cut” is used when the breast bone and cartilage are cut from a spare rib, leaving a slab of ribs with a more uniform size and shape. The breast bone can be used for stock, and the leftover meat and cartilage can be seasoned and cooked for rib tips. A full-size spare rib can be trimmed easily at home, or your local butcher can trim the rib and give you the bonus cuttings. The recipe that follows is as close to what we use at the restaurant as I can give without being disowned by the family. I think you will recognize the similarities—and perhaps even like it better!

It is impossible to discuss Memphis barbecue without talking about ribs. Where in most places the rib-loving factions are divided between those who prefer baby backs to spareribs (or vice versa), in Memphis the two different camps are partisans of either dry or wet preparations. Wet ribs are daubed with sauce before serving. Dry ribs can have either a dry rub added prior to cooking or a seasoning blend applied after cooking. Either way, no tomato-based sauce touches a dry rib from Memphis.

If Big Bob Gibson was nowhere to be found at the restaurant, there was a good chance he would be on the lake or in the woods. An avid outdoorsman, he enjoyed not only hunting and fishing, but also cooking his catch. He passed this love of the outdoors on to his kids, especially Cotton, who would leave for the family hunting camp in mid-October and return home in February. As word spread of Big Bob’s smoked venison with white sauce, hunters started dropping their fresh deer meat by the restaurant to have it cooked. During hunting season, venison appeared with regularity on the pits. This dish, similar to a large pot roast with chunks of tender vegetables, is a favorite of local hunters. To this day, the rich aroma of venison can sometimes be smelled in the kitchens of Big Bib Gibson Bar-B-Q, especially during the fall and winter months of hunting season.

Though goat is not usually offered at Big Bob’s, it has made at least one notable appearance on the menu. In 1938 the early spring brought on a record crop of wild onion that blanketed the front yard of Big Mama’s house. Since separating from Big Bob, she had become responsible not only for raising the children but for pulling up the onions, as well. As she bent over to address this spring nuisance, she presented Ruth’s pet goat an irresistible target; taking a running start, the goat sent Big Mama sprawling into the onion patch. That was the final straw for Big Mama. They loaded the goat into the car and took it straight to Big Bob. The goat didn’t have a prayer. But it was quite tasty that day . . . and still is if it’s cooked right!

In 2002, I received a phone call from Fast Eddie Maurin, a well known pitmaster and competition cook from Kansas City. He informed me that MAXIM magazine was doing an article on barbecuing whole pig with three different cooking methods: indirect cooking, underground, and open spit. Eddie told the editors of the magazine to look no further; he had two other experts lined up to help them pull off their three-way pig pickin’: Ray Lampe (aka Dr. BBQ) and me. In a gesture that would live up to his nickname, Eddie volunteered to cook one pig in a closed smoker with indirect heat. Now, any true barbecuer can cook a pig on an indirect cooker in his or her sleep, but there would be no sleep for whoever drew the labor-intensive spit. Later that day, the call I was anxiously awaiting came. The editor from MAXIM said, “I heard you were an expert at cooking a pig on an open spit.” Of all possible whole-pig cooking methods, the open spit arguably offers the best atmosphere for an outdoor party. Unlike other cookers, the open spit offers a clear view of the turning pig throughout the entire cook, enticing the crowd with both sights and smells of the barbecue. The spit becomes the centerpiece of conversation while barbecue anticipation builds to a climax.

One of the only places in the world where you can enjoy fresh, chopped whole pig straight from the barbecue cooker is in North Carolina. The tradition of cooking whole hog directly over hickory or oak wood that has been reduced to coals and then soaking the chopped meat with a vinegar-based sauce is one that has been enjoyed since the birth of American-style barbecue. The first time I experienced this exquisite taste, it was in the North Carolina countryside at a roadside shanty they called a restaurant. The rhythmic beat of the meat cleavers pounding the butcher block echoed through the rafters, and vibrations from the tin roof added harmony to this musical cadence. I stood shoulder-to-shoulder with locals waiting for a table to clear before being handed my greatly anticipated lunch. I watched moist chunks of hand-chopped pig fall from my overstuffed sandwich as I thanked God for North Carolina. Make this in your own backyard and you’ll be giving thanks as well.

Although Memphis itself is not noted for whole-pig barbecue, if you ever attend the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, you will be able to get a taste. At this annual event there are three professional meat categories: whole hog, pork shoulder, and pork ribs. It is, after all, billed as “The Super Bowl of Swine.” Over the years, the flavor profile of the winning pigs at Memphis has changed, with the sweet and fruity flavors overtaking the vinegar-based flavors of traditional North Carolina pigs. No one has proved this better than Myron Mixon of the Jack’s Old South cooking team, whose peach-wood–smoked pig, layered with flavors from a sweet fruity injection and sweet tomato based sauce, has consistently put him on the awards podium. Layering complementary flavors is the key to success on the competition circuit. This recipe features the same sweet, fruity, layered flavors that have historically brought home the bacon at the Memphis.

Sometimes, “simple” and “expected” trump “gourmet” and “unusual.” There are many recipes floating around that try to dress up this annual dish. The results are flavors that are foreign to both the meat and the occasion. The most unique thing about this recipe is the technique, which involves wrapping the bird in aluminum foil with a hole cut in the top. This step is beneficial in two ways: First, it helps to trap moisture and increases the humidity in the air around the turkey. Second, the hole in the foil allows in just enough true smoke to flavor the turkey so you don’t run the risk of ruining your feast with the harsh bitter flavor of an oversmoked turkey.

When a whole turkey is a little too much meat for your gathering, a turkey breast is a great option. The bad news is that most turkey breasts sold in grocery stores are seasoned, precooked, and in some cases processed. If raw turkey breasts are not a staple in your grocery-store meat case, ask your butcher for boneless turkey breast lobes. The other way to obtain raw boneless breasts is to cut your own, which is a simple process. Beginning with a whole turkey, place your knife parallel to the backbone. Cut straight down about three inches following the backbone until your knife reaches the rib cage. Follow the rib cage with the knife, cutting away from the backbone. This will separate the breast lobe from the whole turkey. Repeat the process on the other side of the turkey to yield a second boneless turkey breast. Freeze the remaining turkey for future use.

Nine times out of ten when chicken is ordered in a restaurant, a breast will arrive at the table. Where is the love for dark meat? To my mind there is no comparison between the depth of flavors of dark meat versus white meat. On top of that, chicken legs and thighs stay moister and more tender and have a greater margin of error when cooking. For those reasons most competitive barbecuers prefer to submit dark meat rather than chicken breast to trained judges. For marinating chicken it is hard to beat a traditional Italian dressing. The marinade in this recipe stays close to this philosophy while adding a fresh punch with mixed herbs. Its earthy acidic profile complements the subtle smoke flavor of the chicken; there is nothing out-of-the-bottle about it.

This is one of the most popular menu items at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q and has been a staple in Decatur, Alabama, since Big Bob first started selling his ’Q in 1925. Most folks raised in North Alabama have firmly believed since childhood that barbecue sauce is white. Where did the rest of the country go wrong? The simple technique for cooking the chickens has not changed for more than eighty years, and the ingredients can be listed on one hand: salt, pepper, basting oil, and, of course, that creamy, tangy, peppery white sauce. An all-hickory fire on a closed brick pit is the only other necessity for duplicating the authentic Big Bob flavors. The type of oil used for basting has changed through the years. Big Bob used whatever oil was most easily available to baste the chickens as they cooked, including rendered lard. Excess fat was cut off the pork shoulders and heated in a pot until the lard liquefied. The rendered lard was stored in metal “lard buckets” until needed. No matter what type of oil is used, the chickens still taste fantastic.

The beef tenderloin is a major muscle that hangs between the shoulder blade and the hip under the rib cage. Because the tenderloin does very little work, it is the tenderest part of the cow. Weighing an average of six to eight pounds, the muscle is commonly cut into steak fillets, left whole, or cut into tenderloin roasts. No matter how it is prepared, it is considered a succulent deluxe cut, suitable for special occasions and celebrations. Two things need to be done prior to cooking a whole tenderloin. First, the silver membrane, also called silver skin, that covers a portion of the outside of the tenderloin needs to be removed with a sharp knife. Second, to ensure even cooking, the thin tapered tail end of the tenderloin should be folded back on itself and tied with cooking twine to create a long roast of equal thickness throughout. Although a very tender muscle, the tenderloin does not have the flavor depth of many other beef cuts. Too often people obscure its mild flavor with heavy rubs or marinades. Here a mushroom crust amplifies the flavor of the beef without compromising its natural flavors. With such a tender cut and the added flavor depth of the mushrooms, overcooking is the only way you can ruin this dish.

There are both pros and cons to wrapping meat during the cooking process. Kansas City pitmaster Paul Kirk has often referred to the process of wrapping your meat with foil during cooking as the “Texas crutch.” He maintains that wrapping is not needed to get tender, flavorful barbecue. Cooking in foil can dilute the barbecue flavors you have worked very hard to put into your meat, washing away the smoke flavor and natural caramelization of barbecue meat. The longer food stays in foil, the more it is cooked by steam. The obvious advantage to wrapping with foil is that the meat becomes more tender, but another plus is capturing the natural juices. These juices can later be drizzled over the barbecue or mixed with sauce to add an extra flair to your barbecue. Either cooking method can produce amazing results. For those who want to simplify the cooking process or retain maximum smoke flavor, this recipe is ideal. It utilizes a seasoning paste to flavor the beef. The paste will adhere to the brisket nicely during the smoking process, ensuring a great taste. No foil, no problem. Paul, this one’s for you.

The following brisket recipe was developed over a period of three years specifically for cooking competitions. It began after learning the requirements of the Kansas City Barbecue Association’s competition cooking circuit. I made a trip to my favorite Alabama butcher and asked to see the beef brisket. He proudly told me he had the largest selection of that particular cut in the area. The four varieties of corned beef looked good, but they were not exactly what I was looking for. It seemed we both had a little to learn about barbecue beef brisket. Many years and tears later I fell in love with the rich beef flavor of this recipe. In the restaurant we serve our brisket as thin slices with the juices drizzled over the fresh cuts of beef, but in competitions we separate the flat from the point and reserve the cooked point to make burnt ends (see page 86). Brisket has become one of our most consistent categories in cooking competitions, including wins at the American Royal Invitational Contest in Kansas City, Missouri, and the Best of the Best Invitational BBQ Cook-off in Douglas, Georgia.

“Head of beef” is a term that Big Bob used to describe his favorite cut of beef, the top round. This lean cut is taken from the top portion of the back leg and weighs around thirty pounds. When Big Bob began serving top round in the restaurant, he raised his pit lids to the ten-inch clearance needed to fit this enormous hunk of beef into his cooker. With a sixteen-hour cook time, Big Bob’s head of beef roasts slowly overnight on the pit next to the pork shoulders. This gives the simple seasonings time to meld with the natural flavor of the beef. Two things are needed when trying Big Bob’s original beef recipe at home: a sturdy grill and a large crowd!

Burnt ends are the charred end pieces and flavorful crumbles that are left in the pooled juices and drippings after a beef brisket has been sliced. I consider them the most flavorful part of the brisket. Usually it’s the early bird who gets the worm, but in the case of brisket, it is the last person in line who gets to scrape the cutting board. Burnt ends have become so popular that people have come up with ways to make more of these flavorful brisket bits.

Through changes in breeding and feed, today’s commodity pork cuts are 16 percent leaner and have 27 percent less saturated fat than those of just fifteen years ago. In my humble opinion, this might be a little too lean. Lower fat means less flavor and moisture within the meat. Regardless, one of my favorite cuts of meat for the charcoal grill is still the pork tenderloin. This lean cut has fewer than three grams of fat for a three-ounce serving; that’s as lean as a skinless chicken breast. Sometimes the pig doesn’t get the love it deserves, you know? To highlight the versatility of pork tenderloin, I served this recipe, inspired by my extensive travels in the Caribbean, the first time I cooked for the James Beard Foundation in New York City. Although I served it as an appetizer right off the grill, it also makes a wonderful main course. It combines some of my favorite Southern barbecue flavors with the traditional acidic punch of the food of the islands.

We normally think of bacon as the thin slices of cured pork found in the aisles of our favorite grocery store or as crispy strips of meat acting as a tasty buffer between our eggs and biscuits in the early morning. The USDA defines bacon as “the cured belly of a swine carcass,” but it is more loosely accepted as cuts of meat taken from the belly, sides, or back of a pig. Big Bob Gibson was fond of bacon not only as a delicious food in its own right, but as part of the cooking process. He would season slab bacon and cook it above leaner cuts of meat such as ham, pork tenderloin, turkey, whole goat, or venison. The meat below the slab bacon would bathe in a shower of hot lard, ensuring a tender, moist, and flavorful result. Big Bob also placed slab bacon in the rib cage of whole pigs while they were cooking on the pit to ensure that the ribs and loin would not overcook while the shoulders and hams of the pig were still roasting. Diced slab bacon also made an occasional appearance in Big Bob’s Brunswick stew, baked beans, pinto beans, black-eyed peas, and greens. If Big Bob’s regular customers were observant, the aroma of slab bacon was a giveaway that their food would be extra tasty that day. Slab bacon was a special treat to him because he enjoyed the charred crisp edges. This recipe maximizes the amount of charred caramelized bits by cutting the slab in pieces prior to cooking. It was not a regular menu item, but it showed up when Big Bob wanted to add extra flavor to other foods he was preparing that day. Although Big Bob’s favorite slab bacon recipe was never written down, the following recipe comes close to matching his flavors.