Wild Striped Bass with Farro, Black Rice, Green Garlic, and Tangerine
The first incarnation of this dish did not include rice. Tasting it over and over again, I knew it needed a final element that would bring its flavors into harmony: nutty farro, meaty bass, pungent green garlic, sweet pea shoots, tart tangerines. I racked my brain for just the right thing, then remembered a sample of black rice I had stashed in my desk drawer weeks before. I had little experience with black rice—varieties of rice whose kernels are covered by extremely dark bran. The black rice I found was grown in the salt marshes of the Veneto, so I cooked it in an Italian style. As I would for risotto, I sautéed the rice in olive oil to seal the outer layer and toast it slightly. Then I deglazed with white wine, added water, and let it simmer away. When the rice was done, I found it solved my problem perfectly. The rice’s marshy origins gave it a subtle oceany taste, complementing the fresh fish and giving the entire dish a springtime-by-the sea coherence. What’s more, there was a visual bonus: the black rice was gorgeous to behold, coated in its own deep purple sauce.
Ingredients
Farro and black rice with green garlic and pea shoots
Preparation
Step 1
Season the fish with the tangerine zest, thyme, and parsley. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
Step 2
Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking, to bring it to room temperature.
Step 3
Slice the stem and bottom ends from the tangerines. Stand the tangerines on one end and, following the contour of the fruit with a sharp knife, remove the cottony white pith. Work from top to bottom and rotate the fruit as you go. Then hold each tangerine over a bowl and carefully slice between the membranes and the fruit to release the segments in between. Discard all the seeds. You should have about 1/3 cup tangerine segments.
Step 4
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches.) Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, skin side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes, until the bass is almost cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it’s done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little, and the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a bit more once you take it out of the pan.
Step 5
Wipe out the pan and return it to the stove over medium-high heat. Add the tangerine juice and sugar and bring to a boil. When the juice has reduced by half, turn the heat down to low and quickly whisk in the butter, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of freshly ground pepper. Remove from the heat, and stir in the tangerine segments. Taste for seasoning.
Step 6
Place the farro and black rice with green garlic and pea shoots on a large warm platter. Arrange the bass on top, and spoon the sauce over the fish.
Farro and black rice with green garlic and pea shoots
Step 7
Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and add 1/2 cup onion, one chile, and a bay leaf. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is translucent. Add the rice, stirring to coat it with the oil, and toast it slightly. Pour 1/4 cup white wine into the pan and reduce by half. Add 4 1/2 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, and simmer about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender but slightly “al dente.” When the rice is almost done, stir continuously about 5 more minutes, until all the liquid has evaporated. Season with a few grindings of black pepper, and transfer the rice to a baking sheet to cool. Discard the chile and bay leaf.
Step 8
Meanwhile, heat a second medium saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, the remaining 1/2 cup diced onion, the thyme, and the remaining bay leaf. Cook, stirring often, 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the farro, stirring to coat it with the oil and toast it slightly. Pour in the remaining 1/2 cup wine and reduce by half. Add 8 cups water and 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, and simmer about 30 minutes, until the farro is tender and just cooked through. Strain the farro and transfer it to a baking sheet to cool. Discard the bay leaf.
Step 9
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Slice the remaining chile thinly on the diagonal. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and add the green garlic, sliced chile, and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and sauté 2 to 3 minutes. Add the farro, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of black pepper. Cook about 5 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the pan as the grains crisp slightly. Stir in the rice, and cook another 2 to 3 minutes. Add the pea shoots, and cook until just wilted. Taste for seasoning.
Note
Step 10
Season the fish with the zest and herbs at least 4 hours before cooking. You can cook the farro and black rice ahead of time and sauté them together when you’re ready to serve. If you are not comfortable cooking the grains and the fish at the same time, sauté the grains, and hold them in the oven until the fish is cooked. Add the pea shoots to the grains at the last minute.
