Tunisian Lamb-and-Eggplant Stew with Farro, Parsley, and Harissa
This dish was inspired by a trip to Tunisia a few years ago. I fell in love with the Tunisian cooks’ use of spices and the bowls of harissa served with every meal. What surprised me most was the use of caraway, which I had always thought of as an Eastern European spice. For this Tunisian-flavored stew, I season the lamb shoulder overnight with caraway, coriander, chiles, cayenne, and paprika, and then braise it in an aromatic broth with cinnamon and allspice. For a traditional braise I usually deglaze with wine, but in keeping with Muslim prohibitions common in Tunisia, I refrain and substitute lemon juice, which also adds a bright, acidic note to the stew.
Ingredients
Farro with Parsley and Butter
Harissa
Preparation
Step 1
Toast the caraway seeds in a small pan for a few minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and darken slightly. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the seeds coarsely. Repeat with the coriander.
Step 2
Place the lamb in a large bowl with the caraway, coriander, smashed garlic, chiles, paprika, cayenne, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Using your hands, toss the lamb, spices, and oil together to coat the meat well. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.
Step 3
Take the meat out of the refrigerator 45 minutes before cooking. After 15 minutes, season it on all sides with 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons salt and lots of pepper. Reserve the garlic.
Step 4
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Step 5
Heat a large Dutch oven over high heat for 3 minutes. Pour in 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait a minute or two, until the pan is very hot, almost smoking. Place the meat in the pan, being careful not to crowd it. (You will most likely need to do this in two batches.) Sear the meat until it’s well browned and caramelized on all sides. (This step is very important and should not be rushed; it may take15 to 20 minutes.) As the batches of meat are browned, remove them to a baking sheet or platter.
Step 6
Turn the heat down to medium and add the onion, bay leaves, and reserved garlic. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits left in the pan. Cook about 5 minutes, until the onions are caramelized. Add the crushed tomatoes and lemon juice and cook 2 minutes, stirring continuously to coat the onions.
Step 7
Add the stocks, cinnamon, and allspice. Bring to a boil.
Step 8
Turn off the heat and add the lamb and its juices to the pot. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid, if you have one. Braise the lamb in the oven about 3 hours.
Step 9
While the lamb is braising, cut the eggplant into 1-inch cubes. Toss them with salt, and place them in a colander for 10 minutes to drain. Pat the eggplant cubes dry with paper towels. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 3 tablespoons olive oil, and wait 1 minute. Add the eggplant to the pan, and let sear a minute or two. (Do not crowd the pan; you may need to do this in batches.) Once it starts to color, turn the eggplant cubes to achieve a nice color on all sides. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until tender and golden. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet.
Step 10
To check the meat for doneness, carefully remove the lid and foil, being mindful of the hot steam. Spoon a piece of meat out of the pan and press it with your thumb or a spoon. If it’s done, it will yield easily and almost fall apart. If it’s not super-tender, cover again and return the pot to the oven.
Step 11
When the meat is done, remove from the oven and turn the temperature up to 400°F.
Step 12
Ladle most of the braising juices into a strainer set over a saucepan, leaving an inch or two of juices in the pan with the lamb. Press down on the vegetables with the ladle to extract all the juices. Discard the cinnamon stick and allspice.
Step 13
Return the lamb to the oven for about 15 minutes, to caramelize it.
Step 14
Skim the fat from the braising juices. Reduce the broth over medium-high heat to thicken it slightly, if necessary. Taste for seasoning.
Step 15
Stir the eggplant in with the browned lamb, and pour the hot broth over the top, stirring to coat well.
Step 16
Transfer the farro onto a large warm platter. Spoon the braised lamb, along with the eggplant and cooking juices, over the farro. Dollop the harissa over the meat, scatter the parsley on top, and serve the remaining harissa and braising juices on the side.
Farro with Parsley and Butter
Step 17
Heat a medium saucepan over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in the olive oil, and add the diced onion, thyme, cinnamon stick, chiles, and bay leaf. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is translucent.
Step 18
Add the farro, stirring to coat it with the oil, and toast it slightly. Add 8 cups water and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low, and simmer about 30 minutes, until the farro is tender and just cooked through. Drain the farro and discard the cinnamon stick, chiles, and bay leaf. Toss the hot farro with the butter. When all the butter has melted, stir in the parsley and a few grindings of black pepper. Taste for seasoning.
Harissa
Step 19
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Add the chiles to the pan and dry-toast them for a few minutes until they are blistered and slightly darkened. Place the chiles in a bowl and cover with very hot water. Let them sit, covered, 15 minutes.
Step 20
Return the pan to the stove and add the tomato. Cook over medium heat for a few minutes until the juices reduce and the tomato is slightly darkened.
Step 21
Meanwhile, toast the cumin in a small pan over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and darken slightly. Pound them coarsely in a mortar.
Step 22
Drain the chiles well and place them in a food processor with the garlic, tomatoes, paprika, cumin, cayenne, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Purée until well combined. With the motor running, slowly pour in the olive oil and blend until incorporated. Season with a healthy squeeze of lemon juice, and more salt if you like.
Note
Step 23
The lamb, like all braises, can be made a day or even 2 days ahead of time. Remember to marinate it overnight before braising. The harissa can also can be made ahead, and keeps for a few weeks in the refrigerator. Make the farro within an hour of serving. I like it best just after it’s been cooked and tossed with the butter. Hold it in a warm oven for up to 30 minutes, if that’s more convenient for you.