Thai Fried Rice with Runny Egg
I’m a longtime fan of Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, cookbook authors who produce glorious books with a journalistic approach to food writing. Their stories and stunning photographs illuminate the culture behind the food of such places as Southeast Asia and lesser-known parts of China. They’re also great fun to talk to, and when I interviewed them about their ways with fried rice (which they often make for themselves at home when one or the other is traveling), they insisted that for my own eating pleasure I make sure to always have nam pla prik in my refrigerator. This Thai condiment is simply fish sauce and chiles, which sounds like an almost lethally pungent combination, but when you make it, something magical happens. Each ingredient tames the other one, an effect that increases the longer the sauce sits in the refrigerator. This recipe is designed to use leftover rice, such as the stuff that comes in spades with Chinese takeout orders. Fresh rice doesn’t work as well because it sticks. If you don’t have a wok, you can use a nonstick skillet for this recipe, but it will take longer and won’t be as much fun.
Ingredients
Nam Pla Prik
Fried Rice
Preparation
Step 1
To make the nam pla prik, don food-safe gloves and stem the chiles, then thinly slice. (Alternatively, place the stemmed chiles in a food processor and pulse a few times, being careful not to puree them.) Transfer the chiles, including the seeds, to a glass container with a tight-fitting lid; add the fish sauce. Close tightly and refrigerate indefinitely. (The longer the mixture keeps, the more both ingredients will mellow. If desired, just replenish with more chile peppers or fish sauce whenever either gets low.)
Step 2
To make the fried rice, remember to have everything measured out and ready before you start, because with high-heat stir-frying, everything happens pretty quickly. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok over high heat until a drop of water vaporizes within a second or two. Swirl in the 1 tablespoon of oil to coat the sides and bottom, then add the garlic and stir-fry until the garlic is just golden, about 20 seconds. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Resist the urge to turn down the heat, and keep everything moving.
Step 3
Add the rice, breaking it up with your fingers as you toss it into the wok. Use a heatproof spatula to keep the rice moving for 2 to 3 minutes, scooping and tossing and pressing the rice against the bottom and sides of the wok to sear it. Add the scallions, tomato, fish sauce, and soy sauce. Stir-fry until the tomato breaks up and the scallions slightly soften, 30 seconds. Transfer the mixture to a dinner plate.
Step 4
Wipe out the wok and decrease the heat to low. Pour the remaining 1 teaspoon oil into the wok. Break the egg into a small bowl, then carefully tip the egg from the bowl into the wok. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the top of the egg has barely filmed over with white and the yolk is still runny, about 2 minutes. Carefully lift out the egg and place it atop the rice.
Step 5
Garnish with the cilantro, cucumber slices, and wedges of lime, and eat it with as much nam pla prik as you wish, sprinkling it a teaspoon at a time onto the rice to taste along with squeezes of lime juice as you eat.
