Shrimp Simmered in Caramel Sauce
For everyday meals, Viet cooks often prepare kho, simple dishes simmered in a bittersweet caramel-based sauce. Similar to the Chinese braising technique called red cooking, Vietnamese kho cooking transforms ingredients into richly colored and flavored foods. Economical to prepare but lavish tasting, these dishes also keep well for days, a plus in the old days of no refrigeration. If you are new to seafood kho dishes, start with this one. You will experience shrimp in a totally new way. Nowadays it seems a mistake to overcook seafood, but here you purposely do it to allow the flavors to penetrate thoroughly. The shrimp cook vigorously, releasing juices that combine with the other seasonings to create a dark, tasty sauce. The onion nearly disintegrates, and the final addition of oil lends a rich note. Traditional cooks use extra lard or oil to give the shrimp, which are still in the shell, an appetizing sheen, but I use peeled shrimp because they are easier to chew.
This dish may also be prepared in a small (1 1/2-quart) clay pot. Cook the shrimp with the lid on for at least half of the time to maintain a high temperature. For details on clay pot cooking, see page 108.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4 with 2 or 3 other dishes
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Refresh the shrimp by putting them in a colander and tossing them with a liberal amount of salt. Rinse immediately under lots of cold water and press gently to drain well. In a shallow saucepan, combine the shrimp, 1/8 teaspoon salt, the fish sauce, and the caramel sauce and bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat. Add the onion and pepper and give the mixture a big stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Continue cooking over high heat for another 10 to 14 minutes, or until the shrimp have turned an orange-brown and have a pleasant sweetness and chewiness. The total cooking time depends on the size of the shrimp.
Step 2
As the shrimp cook, they curl and release their juices to combine with the other ingredients. Expect a strong boil throughout and turn the shrimp occasionally with a spoon. If the pan begins to appear dry, splash in some water to coax the shrimp to cook longer. The juices eventually concentrate into a mahogany-colored sauce. When the shrimp are done, there should only be a few tablespoons of sauce left.
Step 3
Turn off the heat, add the oil, and stir to coat the shrimp. Taste and sprinkle in more pepper for added flavor. Transfer to a shallow bowl, scatter the scallion on top, and serve.
