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Roasted Pear Salad with Endive, Hazelnuts, and St. Agur

A variety of cheeses work in this salad, but I particularly love St. Agur, a triple-crème French cow’s milk blue cheese. Its pungent and intense blue flavor is balanced by an unusually creamy and sensuous texture. When shaved into long thin ribbons, the cheese is elegant on the plate and delicate on the palate. To make thin ribbons, I use an old-fashioned cheese pull, a wide metal spatula-shaped utensil with a slotted blade in the center. Pears and cheese are always happy companions, so if you can’t find St. Agur choose another blue, or seek out a good sheep’s milk cheese, such as a Roncal, Manchego, or pecorino. We’ve had more than one customer order this salad as dessert, so you decide where it falls in the meal.

Ingredients

3/4 cup blanched hazelnuts
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon hazelnut oil
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
5 Comice or Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and cut into eighths
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot, plus 2 tablespoons thinly sliced shallot
2 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
6 heads Belgian endive, core removed, separated into spears
1 ounce arugula, cleaned and dried
1/4 pound St. Agur blue cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 375°F.

    Step 2

    Toast the hazelnuts on a baking sheet 8 to 10 minutes, until they smell nutty and are a light golden brown. Remove them from the oven, and toss with 1 teaspoon hazelnut oil and a healthy pinch of salt. When they have cooled, chop the nuts coarsely.

    Step 3

    Heat two large sauté pans over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil into each pan, and then carefully place the pears in the pan, cut side down. Add 2 tablespoons butter to each pan, and season each batch with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon thyme. Reduce the heat to medium-high, and cook the pears about 6 minutes, until they’re golden brown on the first side. Carefully turn the pears over, and cook another 3 to 4 minutes, until the second side is golden brown and the pears are tender but not mushy.

    Step 4

    Using a mortar and pestle, or the side of a large chef’s knife, pound or mash six of the pear wedges to a chunky paste. Combine the diced shallot, sherry vinegar, rice vinegar, and 3/4 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl, and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup hazelnut oil and 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Stir in the pear purée and taste for balance and seasoning.

    Step 5

    Place the remaining roasted pear wedges, the endive, and the sliced shallots in a large salad bowl, and toss with about three-quarters of the vinaigrette. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grindings of black pepper, and toss gently, being careful not to break up the pears. Toss in the arugula gently, and taste for seasoning, adding more vinaigrette if you like.

    Step 6

    Arrange half the salad on a large platter. Use a cheese pull to make long ribbons of the blue cheese, and place half of them in and around the greens. Sprinkle half of the nuts on top. Place the remaining salad on top, and finish with shavings of cheese and the rest of the nuts.

  2. Note

    Step 7

    If you don’t have a cheese pull, you can run your knife under hot water and then cut thin, pristine slices.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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