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Potato Croquettes with Meat

I had been making meatless potato croquettes for years when I found that my favorite condiment (for these and many other fried foods) was soy sauce mixed with lemon—so imagine my self-satisfaction when I was served these at a Tokyo lunch counter with exactly that dipping sauce. I like to add curry powder, for both flavor and color, but it’s not essential. Substitute canned salmon or tuna for the meat if you like, but don’t cook it; simply toss it with the onion and seasonings after cooking the onion. The Japanese bread crumbs called panko are available at Japanese markets and many supermarkets. In Japan, these are almost always deep-fried; I find panfrying suffices, though of course you can deep-fry if you prefer. They’re usually served on a bed of plain shredded cabbage, sometimes as an appetizer, sometimes as a main course. You can make both mashed potatoes and the meat mixture in advance; you can also make the patties in advance and cover and refrigerate them for up to a day before cooking.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 4 servings

Ingredients

3 cups mashed potatoes, made with a minimum of milk and no butter (leftovers are fine)
Salt and black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed
1 medium onion, chopped
1/2 pound ground beef, pork, chicken, or turkey, or a combination of ground meats
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons curry powder, preferably homemade (pages 592–593), optional
2 tablespoons butter or more oil
Flour for dredging
2 eggs, lightly beaten in a bowl
Bread crumbs, preferably fresh (page 580), or panko (Japanese bread crumbs, page 8) for dredging
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups shredded cabbage, optional

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If you’re making mashed potatoes expressly for this dish, cook the meat while the potatoes are boiling. Season the potatoes well, but do not oversalt. Put 1 tablespoon oil in a medium to large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, just until it softens, 5 minutes or so. Crumble the meat and add it, stirring to break up clumps. Cook, stirring, just until it loses its color, another 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, then add 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, the curry powder if you’re using it, and salt and pepper.

    Step 2

    When the meat is cool enough to handle, combine with the potatoes. Again, taste and adjust the seasoning. Form into 4 large or 8 small patties.

    Step 3

    Put the butter and remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium high heat. When the butter melts, dredge each patty in the flour, then run through the egg, then dredge in the bread crumbs, pressing to help the crumbs adhere. Cook the patties as you would hamburgers, turning—carefully, so as not to dislodge the coating—as each side browns, about 5 minutes per side. Since all the ingredients are already cooked, the crust is your main concern; the interior will get hot as long as the exterior browns.

    Step 4

    Combine the remaining 1/4 cup soy sauce with the lemon juice. If you’re using the cabbage, spread it on a platter and moisten with a bit of the soy-lemon sauce. Put the patties on the cabbage bed and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.

  2. Meatless Potato Croquettes with Curry

    Step 5

    A side dish, not a main course: Omit the meat and soy sauce; finely chop the onion, but don’t bother to cook it. Combine the potatoes with the onion, 1 teaspoon minced garlic, 1 egg, the curry powder, and 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves. Finish as directed, omitting the cabbage and serving with lemon wedges.

The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved. MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.
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