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Fiery Maccheroni

Like many traditional Lucani dishes, this one is fashioned from the handful of ingredients one would find even in the most humble peasant pantry: dried peppers, yesterday’s bread, a chunk of hard cheese, olive oil, and garlic. Minimal yet delicious. The fire in fiery maccheroni, of course, comes from dried diavolicchio, the hot chili peppers so beloved in Basilicata and other southern regions. Here, whole dried peperoncino pods are soaked until soft, then puréed into a pesto to dress the pasta. Toasted bread crumbs play an important role in this dish, too, when they’re tossed in just before serving. They pick up the paste and garlicky olive oil, cling to the strands of pasta (preferably bucatini or perciatelli), and give crunchy, fiery sparks of flavor to every enjoyable bite.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 6

Ingredients

1/4 ounce whole dried Italian peperoncini (see Sources, page 387)
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to cover pepper pesto
3/4 cup coarse bread crumbs from day-old country bread
1 pound bucatini (or perciatelli or thick spaghetti)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 plump garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano)

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

A food processor or mini-chopper; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a baking sheet, a heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 12-inch diameter or larger

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    To soften the peperoncini: Remove the stems, put them in a heatproof bowl or measuring cup, and pour over them 2 cups of boiling water. Let them soak for several hours (preferably overnight), until they are very pliable.

    Step 2

    To make the pepper pesto: Drain the peperoncini (discard the soaking water), and put them in the bowl of the food processor with 6 tablespoons of the olive oil. Process to a smooth paste (though you may see a few seeds), scraping down the sides several times. If you are not using the pesto right away, pack it into a small container, smooth the top, and cover the pesto with a thin film of olive oil (a little will go a long way).

    Step 3

    To toast the bread crumbs: Spread them on a rimmed baking sheet and place it in a 350° oven. Bake the crumbs for about 8 minutes, shaking the pan a couple of times, until they’re crisp and golden.

    Step 4

    When you are ready to cook the pasta, fill the large pot with water and 1 tablespoon salt, and heat to a rolling boil. Drop in the bucatini, stir to separate the strands, return the water to a boil, and let it cook, stirring occasionally.

    Step 5

    As soon as the bucatini goes in the pot, pour the remaining olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook for a minute or so, until it’s sizzling, then scrape in the pepper pesto, spread it over the pan bottom, and let it toast for a minute. Ladle in about 2 cups of the boiling pasta water, sprinkle in the 1 teaspoon salt and chopped parsley, and stir well. Bring the water to a boil, and cook until half of it evaporates, about 3 minutes, then lower the heat to keep the sauce barely simmering.

    Step 6

    When the bucatini is al dente, lift it from the pot, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet. Toss pasta and sauce together until all the strands are evenly coated. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss; scatter the toasted bread crumbs over the top, and toss a final time. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2009 Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of four previous books, three of them accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series. She is the owner of the New York City restaurant Felidia (among others), and she lectures on and demonstrates Italian cooking throughout the country. She lives on Long Island, New York. Tanya Bastianich Manuali, Lidia’s daughter, received her Ph.D. in Renaissance history from Oxford University. Since 1996 she has led food/wine/art tours. She lives with her husband and children on Long Island.
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