Dorade Royale
While in Nice, I had lunch with Irene and Michel Weil at their charming house, with fig trees growing in their garden and nasturtiums on their deck. Although Irene quietly confessed to me that she wasn’t much of a cook, she treated us to a delectable and creative meal. It began with the last tomatoes from their garden served with a little olive oil, sea salt, and a sprinkling of fresh herbs, including mint, basil, and cilantro, from her garden; then we had a Mediterranean dorade royale (sea bream) with preserved lemons, tamarind, and ginger. Comté cheese brought from Michel’s native Besançon, fresh pomegranate seeds from the yellow pomegranates growing in their garden, raspberries, and fresh walnuts in the shell finished the meal, all attractively presented as only the French can do. When I asked about the seasonings for the dorade, Irene said that she loves the flavor contrasts of the preserved lemon, tamarind, and ginger.
Recipe information
Yield
6 servings
Ingredients
Citrons Confits (preserved lemons)
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees, and smear 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a 13-by-9-inch ovenproof glass baking pan. Stick the cilantro inside the belly of the fish, or scatter around the fillets and slide into the pan.
Step 2
Stir together the tamarind paste or concentrate, the brown sugar, and the soy sauce in a small mixing bowl, adding enough water to thin until runny. Stir in the white wine, and spoon the sauce over the fish. Scatter the grated and cut ginger and the preserved lemons around the fish, and drizzle the remaining oil on top. Bake in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until just cooked through. Remove the ginger knobs and serve.
Citrons Confits (preserved lemons)
Step 3
Cut off the very ends of each lemon. Cut each one lengthwise into quarters, cutting to but not through the opposite end. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of salt into the cut sides of each lemon.
Step 4
Put the lemons in a large jar (it’s fine if you have to squeeze them in, because they will shrink), and cover completely with lemon juice. Let sit for a day.
Step 5
The next day, if they are not covered with lemon juice, pour a thin film of olive oil over the lemons. This will help keep them sealed while they preserve. Put the jar in the refrigerator and allow to cure for 2 to 3 weeks. Before using, scrape off the pulp if desired.
