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Dad’s Steakhouse Salad: Early Girl Tomatoes, Red Onion, and Roquefort

My father hated salad. I remember him saying, “The only salad worth eating is one with green beans and foie gras, because it’s not all mucked up with lettuce.” And yet, somehow, I grew to love salads, especially the kind with leafy greens. This lettuce-free, classic steakhouse salad, made with first-of-the-season Early Girl tomatoes, sweet young red onions, and slabs of potent Roquefort, is a tribute to my dad, who I know would approve.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon oregano leaves
1/2 clove garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large red onion
2 1/2 pounds Early Girl or beefsteak tomatoes
1 3/4 to 2 teaspoons fleur de sel
1/2 lemon, for juicing
1/3 pound Roquefort or your favorite blue cheese
1/4 cup sliced green and opal basil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Pound the oregano, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a mortar to a paste. Remove to a mixing bowl, and stir in the vinegars. Whisk in the olive oil, and taste for balance and seasoning.

    Step 2

    Peel the onion, and cut it into 1/4-inch-thick rings. Soak the rings in ice water for 5 minutes, to mellow their strong flavor and get them super-crisp.

    Step 3

    Core the tomatoes. One by one, hold each tomato on its side and slice into 1/4-inch-thick round slices. Spread the slices out on a cutting board or platter, and season them with the fleur de sel and some pepper. Drain the onion slices, pat them dry with paper towels, and toss them with a pinch of salt, a squeeze of lemon, and a teaspoon of the vinaigrette.

    Step 4

    Slice the cheese into 1/4-inch-thick slabs.

    Step 5

    Arrange half the tomatoes overlapping on a large chilled platter. Tuck half the onions and half the Roquefort in and around the tomatoes. Spoon half the vinaigrette over the salad, and scatter half the basil over it. Arrange the remaining tomatoes, onions, and Roquefort on top. Spoon the rest of the vinaigrette over the salad, and sprinkle the remaining basil around.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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