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British Kedgeree

Jane Grigson points out in her book English Food that this dish, borrowed from a Hindu creation of rice and lentils called khichri, became a favorite breakfast item among the Brits. However, she warns, it is only as good as the fish that goes into it, so don’t use tired leftovers. But good fish that has been recently and carefully prepared (i.e., not overcooked) is fine, and be generous with the butter and the cream. I have made this with salmon, flounder, and red snapper—all good.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon butter
1/4 dried hot red pepper
2/3–3/4 cup cooked rice
Cooked fish, enough to make 1/2–3/4 cup, flaked
Salt
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon Madras curry powder, or more to taste
1/2 hard-boiled egg (see page 107), sliced
A sprinkling of chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

  1. Heat the butter in a small, heavy pot, and add the hot pepper. Let it sizzle in the oil and turn dark, then fish it out and discard. Stir the rice and the fish into the pot, salt to taste, and leave over low heat to warm through. Meanwhile, simmer the cream and curry powder together until the cream thickens. Transfer the rice and fish to a warm bowl, pour the curried cream over, and garnish with the hard-boiled egg slices and a scattering of parsley.

The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved. Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.
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