No-Skewer-Needed Kebabs With Onion Salad

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Finely chop 1 cup mixed torn tender herbs (such as parsley, cilantro, and/or dill); transfer to a large bowl. Add 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 1 serrano chile, finely chopped (if using), 1 Tbsp. paprika, 2 tsp. ground cumin, ¼ tsp. baking soda, 2 Tbsp. sumac, 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ⅓ cup cold water and stir to combine. Add 1 lb. ground lamb or beef (20% fat) and mix vigorously with your hands until spices are evenly distributed and mixture is smooth and beginning to stick to the sides of bowl.

   Step 2

   Divide meat mixture into 4 equal portions and shape each into a 7"-long log. Pat to flatten slightly and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap; chill at least 15 minutes.

   Step 3

   Prepare a grill for high heat; oil grate with vegetable oil. Mix 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt, 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl to combine. Drizzle yogurt sauce with a little more oil, then sprinkle a large pinch of sumac over. Set aside.

   Step 4

   Place 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced, in a medium bowl of ice water and let soak while you grill the kebabs and lavash.

   Step 5

   Grill kebabs, turning once, until browned all over and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. (Look for juices pooling on the surface.) Transfer to a cutting board and slice on a diagonal into large pieces. Place on a platter.

   Step 6

   Grill lavash or large flour tortillas until warmed through, about 30 seconds per side. Transfer to platter.

   Step 7

   Drain onion. Wipe out bowl and combine onion, remaining 1 cup mixed torn tender herbs, 1 Tbsp. sumac, 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in bowl and toss to combine.

   Step 8

   Spoon onion salad next to kebabs. Serve with garlicky pickles and reserved yogurt sauce.

   Do Ahead: Meat mixture can be made 12 hours ahead. Keep chilled.

   To make without a grill: Heat a dry grill pan over high. Cook kebabs until browned all over and cooked through, about 7 minutes per side.