Latin American

Several years ago, I took a culinary tour of Oaxaca, Mexico, run by my dear friend nancy Zaslavsky. While I knew I was in for some great food, I don’t think anything could have prepared me for the incredible marriage of flavors I found one morning in a bubbling hot cauldron of chilaquiles. I’ve used the memory of that momentous meal as inspiration for a Sriracha-tinged version that may not classify as traditional per se, but you know damn well it’s going to be delicious!.

Sriracha and seafood truly are a perfect match. To me, it’s an excellent example of the whole being greater than the sum of the parts, and this ceviche just reinforces my belief. I’m a fan of just scooping it up with tortilla chips or tostada shells, but you can also fry up any wonton wrappers you might have chilling out in your freezer, leftover from making our Sriracha and Crab rangoon Wontons (page 35), for a nice Asian twist. If you are unable to find persian cucumbers, feel free to substitute the english or hothouse variety.

Tamarind is one of the most common flavors of agua fresca in Mexico, and it’s my absolute favorite. Fresh tamarind pods are available at many specialty markets. Those from Asia are sweeter and more velvety and tend to have more pulp, whereas those from Mexico and the Caribbean are much more tart—which is what I love about them! This beverage has a brownish-orange color, but don’t be put off by it.

Horchatas, also called aguas de horchata, are a popular type of drink in Mexico most commonly made with rice, but they can also be based on many other ingredients, from almonds to barley or oats to coconut—which are also delicious. My favorite has always been the kind made with rice. Not only are horchatas based on different ingredients, some are made with water, while others use whole milk, sweetened condensed milk, or evaporated milk, or even a combination of milks, in addition to the water or in place of it. I’ve had many versions, and I like those with some milk because they have a thicker and creamier mouthfeel, so that’s what this recipe calls for. But feel free to make it with water only, adjusting the consistency to suit your taste.

I first tasted this drink in Tabasco, where they grow some of the best cacao, and fell in love with it. It’s traditionally made with freshly ground toasted cacao beans, but in this recipe I call for I cocoa powder because it’s more readily available. Pinole is a flour made from toasted dried corn kernels. It has a wonderful nuttiness and is often mixed with cinnamon and sugar and stirred into water or milk for a delicious beverage. You can find it at specialty grocery stores and online. In Mexico, many people think the natural sweetness of the corn is enough, but I included sugar in this recipe because I think it’s more of an acquired taste. Honey is also quite nice in this beverage, so substitute it for the sugar if you prefer.

Whenever I use canteloupe to make paletas de melón or agua de melón, I like to save the seeds to make this drink. It’s quite tasty, and something about it makes me feel energetic.

In Mexico, you know that guava season has started when the fruit’s sweet aroma perfumes the air. There are many varieties of guavas, and, thankfully, more and more of them are available in the United States. The skin can be yellowish (often with brown spots) or green, and the flesh may be white, yellowish, or pink. Look for guavas that are very fragrant and feel slightly soft but not mushy. They have many tiny seeds, which are edible, so you can choose to leave them in or strain the drink if you prefer. Personally, I always choose with seeds.

The literal translation of the name of this drink is “the Virgin’s tears,” as the red color of the beets resembles tears of blood said to have been shed by the Virgin Mary. This beverage originated in the state of Guanajuato, maybe as long ago as the end of the sixteenth century. I found a few different variations, but this one seemed to be the most common, and it’s quite special. Although this beverage is customarily prepared during Lent for the festivities of Friday of Sorrows (the Friday before Good Friday), it’s a wonderful drink during fall, when beets and apples abound. This recipe makes a large batch to share at your next gathering.

When I was growing up, my sister and I often went to the market with my mom. There was a great juice stand where they made all kinds of aguas frescas and smoothies. This was my sister’s favorite one. It’s incredibly refreshing, and really good for you, too. The type of alfalfa used for these drinks resembles wheat grass and is grown abundantly in Mexico; you may be able to find alfalfa at nurseries and farmers’ markets. Pineapple is commonly mixed with a variety of green herbs. In the Yucatan, for example, it’s often blended with chaya. If you can’t find alfalfa or chaya, use a couple tablespoons of fresh mint.

This is essentially a fresh orange cooler with a little sparkling water, so it’s kind of like a natural soda. It isn’t as bubbly, but it is quite refreshing and flavorful.

This quick and refreshing drink is great on its own, but it’s also a good base for other beverages. Try stirring in some chopped fresh mint, raspberries, honeydew, or pineapple, or a combination. I’m not sure how it works, but rubbing the end really does help remove bitterness from standard cucumbers; the trick doesn’t apply to English or Persian cucumbers.

When I first moved to the States, I often had major cravings for this beverage. In Mexico, chia seeds are sold in most markets and spice shops, but I couldn’t find them anywhere in the States, and when I tried to explain what they were, people looked at me like I was crazy. Then, late one night when I was watching TV, I saw this thing called the Chia Pet. I had found my seeds! Chia seeds look like poppy seeds, but when soaked in liquid for a while, they bloom and develop an awesome gummy texture. This limeade is made using the whole lime, which gives it a slight bitterness, but trust me: it’s so good you won’t want to make it any other way.

Micheladas, often called cheladas, are drinks made with beer, fresh lime juice, and sometimes chile. Micheladas especiales, or cubanas, use the same foundation but add Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and Maggy sauce, a popular seasoning that has a salty, caramelized, deep flavor. This raspado is inspired by these popular beverages.

This type of ice is very popular, and why wouldn’t it be? It has the perfect combination of sweet ripe mangoes, spiciness, a little acidity, and saltiness. This recipe calls for chamoy, a sauce or condiment made from pickled fruit, usually apricots or plums. Chamoy is a little salty and acidic and it’s an acquired taste, but I personally love it and encourage you to try it if you haven’t.

Glorias are a typical dessert in Veracruz. Traditionally, they use a syrup made from grosellas, a small red fruit similar to a red currant. Since it’s hard to find grosellas outside of Mexico (but by all means use them if you have access!), I used the syrup from the Raspado Rojo as a successful alternative. However, you can also use red currant marmalade by thinning the marmalade with a bit of water and cooking it over low-medium heat until you obtain a light syrup consistency (you can blend it if it’s chunky). I was quite surprised that I liked this concoction because I’d imagined it was going to be super sweet—but the ice helped balanced everything out.

This ice is delicious on its own, but it also goes well with pretty much any kind of chopped fresh fruit. Rompope is similar to eggnog (see page 59), but it has a richer texture and the main spice used is delicious canela.

This recipe is inspired by a traditional Arab sweet that I adore, made from dried apricots and pistachios. Many of the sweets in Mexico have Arab influences due to the fact that Arabs occupied Spain for more than seven centuries. The Spanish in turn colonized Mexico, bringing some of those Arabic influences with them.

If you’ve never tried tamarind before, this shaved ice is a great introduction to the fruit because its delicious tartness is balanced with the sugar. Plus, it’s a very popular flavor that’s found all around Mexico. It’s also one of the best flavors to prepare diablitos or chamoyadas, modern twists on traditional raspados.

This recipe was first published in the New York Times as part of an article on different kinds of shaved ice. The paper’s Diner’s Journal blog asked readers to suggest different flavors, and I had to pick one and come up with a recipe. I chose horchata, a milky beverage often made with rice, because I thought it would go perfectly with the luscious, juicy strawberries that filled the market stands at that time. It’s worth seeking out Mexican cinnamon, as its flavor makes all the difference in this raspado. If you want a stickier, sweeter syrup, add another can of sweetened condensed milk.

This stunning shaved ice is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. You can make these ahead of time for a party by assembling the shaved ices, then placing them in the freezer for 30 minutes prior to your guests’ arrival. (Just make sure they’re not in the freezer for too long or the ice will become too hard—and the glass could crack.)