Sherry

Among the many stories regarding the origins of this dish, the one we deemed "most likely, and most likely to succeed" came to us in 1944. E. Clarke King of Dayton, Ohio, sent us "the original recipe," which he claimed had been invented by George Greenwald, head chef at New York's Brighton Beach Hotel, for his parents (who owned the hotel) in the early 1900s. This time, we've lightened Greenwald's dish with stock and added red, yellow, and orange bell peppers. Even with the changes, though, the dish will likely evoke childhood taste memories for those of a certain age.

Peppers from the valley of La Vera, in Extremadura, are used to produce a deliciously smoky paprika. There are three kinds of pimentón: sweet, bittersweet (called agridulce), and hot. We prefer agridulce in this recipe.

With its slight bitterness, broccoli rabe takes well to assertive flavors. The classic Italian recipe calls for sautéing it with plenty of garlic and crushed red pepper flakes. But for Thanksgiving we've opted for something mellower, choosing sweet raisins, pine nuts, and a bit of sherry.

Most chestnut soups are fairly substantial. We've made our version lighter and brothier to serve as a first course for a big meal. Chopped chestnuts mixed with tangy croutons add texture and extra layers of complexity.

Torta del Casar is a unique Spanish sheep's-milk cheese from the region of Extremadura. It has a soft, creamy texture similar to Brie or Camembert, either of which can be substituted. Here the cheese is drizzled with a syrup made from Pedro Ximénez — the sweetest of Sherries. If unavailable, a good-quality Spanish cream Sherry can be used instead.

Gambas al Ajillo Mamá Pepa I received an e-mail from María Jesús Davis, who resides in Washington, D.C., but is inordinately proud to be a native of Jerez de la Frontera in Andalucía. Writing in charming Andalusian colloquial Spanish, she says, "I am Jerezana to the bone, and I hope you like my mother's recipe, which is very simple to understand — because I get bored when cooking gets complicated." Gambas al ajillo, a staple in most tapas bars, takes on a new twist and a haunting flavor with the addition of medium-dry amontillado sherry, which also comes from María Jesús's hometown. She advises, "Be sure to provide plenty of bread to sop of the sauce. It's to die for!"

If you're making this for the sherry syrup , don't be tempted to use a dark dry Sherry for the syrup or topping — it will muddy the beautiful green-gold color of the cake and tint the cream topping brown.

The delicate, tendriled texture of frisée is essential to the slaw. Round out the lettuce mix with a selection of chicories. What to drink: Barbera d'Alba from the Piedmont region of Italy pairs well with this first course.

A touch of cream Sherry amplifies the sweetness of the nuts and the squash.

This simple Chinese preparation enhances the briny flavor of cockles. If cockles are hard to find in your area, you can substitute other small hard-shelled clams (though steaming time will vary with the type and size).

Serve over couscous, if desired.