Rolls

“Popover” may be one of the most inherently cheerful words in the language; it evokes something baked, warm, and fragrantly delicious. Infused with two savory cheeses, these foolproof, airy popovers, made in a mini-muffin pan, more than live up to their enticing name. They take little time to prepare and are best served hot, but if your oven is juggling multiple priorities, you can mix the batter a day ahead and chill, covered, until you’re ready to bake.

These yeast rolls are the creation of legendary chef and cookbook author Edna Lewis. The mashed potato is traditional in yeast dough and tenderizes both the rolls and contributes to their airy rise. Serve piping hot from the oven, or bake them in advance and warm before serving.

These crisp yet chewy cheese puffs are traditional staples in Brazil. Epicurious member InewportTX, from Pflugerville, Texas, recommends cooking the balls in mini-muffincups, as the dough will be fairly runny. Find tapioca flour (also known as manioc starch and tapioca starch) at specialty markets like Whole Foods.

For my first two months in the army I was based outside Toul. In the town was a pâtisserie that made the best brioche with pastry cream. I would go to the shop whenever I could. The baker spread pastry cream over the dough, and then rolled it up like a biscuit rolé (jelly roll). My father made a brioche-and-pastrycream roll, too, but shaped it like a bretzel. Chantal still remembers them from the first time I brought her home to meet my parents—to do that you had to be serious. When I told my father I planned to put them in this book, he was so pleased.

Dusted with flaky sea salt, these buttery Parker House rolls are folded, making them perfect for late night leftover turkey or roast sandwiches.

Editor's note: This Plain French Bread (or Pain Français) recipe accompanies an excerpt from Bob Spitz's book Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child, published on Epicurious on the occasion of Julia Child's Centennial. Count on a minimum of 6 1/2 to 7 hours from the time you start the dough to the time it is ready for the oven, and half an hour for baking. While you cannot take less time, you may take as much more time as you wish by using the delayed-action techniques described at the end of the recipe.

A simple addition to the master dough results in deliciously scented rolls.

Irresistible is the only word for these light and airy popovers. Add them to the bread basket with dinner or lunch and see how quickly they disappear.

You will need about 2 medium sweet potatoes to obtain 2 cups cooked flesh. We like the flavor of roasted potatoes best, but you could also use boiled or steamed potatoes. Before using, peel and discard the skins.