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If you like, snip the prickly points of the leaves with scissors before you cook the artichokes. The tender leaves and hearts are delicious dipped in Aïoli (page 305).

This savory dish is named for one of the streets in historical Charleston, South Carolina. Crookneck squash is a summer squash that is available year-round in certain regions. You can substitute zucchini or even a winter squash, such as butternut or acorn, depending on what’s in season in your area.

This recipe can be doubled easily. Use a larger steamer, about ten inches in diameter, to cook all four portions at once in the same basket.

The baby artichokes are cooked in advance, so they only need to be grilled for a short time.

You can use other types of firm, white-fleshed fish, or even shrimp or chicken.

This versatile dish is equally delicious served piping hot or at room temperature.

This dish is also delicious with mussels. Decrease the amount of chiles if you like it less spicy.

You can substitute 1 pound large shrimp with shells for the prawns.

For more-generous portions, cook one hen per person. If you do, use two roasting pans, and double the other ingredients.

You can use any firm-fleshed fish for this recipe. Scattering salt in the skillet prevents the fish from sticking without adding fat, and also seasons it. This dish is delicious at any temperature.

Save extra pesto to use on other grilled meats or fish. It will last up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Low-fat plain yogurt can be used instead.

A tasty herb oil is a nice alternative to a heavy or complicated sauce. It’s quick and easy to make, and it looks and tastes great. Herb oil can be refrigerated up to 2 days before using; bring to room temperature before serving.