An irresistible vegetarian main course can take a little extra love and time, but food editor Melissa Roberts would be the first person to tell you it's worth it. Fortunately, all the components of this shepherd's pie—from the heady vegetable stew with its red wine gravy to the crown of fluffy mashed potatoes and celery root—can be made ahead. Protein-rich seitan (pronounced "SAY-tan," it's sometimes labeled "wheat gluten") has long been used as a meat substitute by Asian cooks, who know how to coax the most out of its satisfyingly chewy texture. Seitan doesn't have a strong taste of its own, but it soaks up the flavors of whatever it's cooked with.
• You can use more potatoes in place of the celery root.
• Stew and potato topping can be made 1 day ahead (reserve an additional cup potato-cooking water) and chilled separately. Reheat potato topping slowly in a microwave or in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water, adding enough cooking water to reach desired consistency. Bring stew to a simmer over low heat before topping with warm potato mixture.
Recipe information
Total Time
2 1/2 hr (includes making stock)
Yield
Makes 8 servings
Ingredients
For stew:
For topping:
Preparation
Make stew:
Step 1
Blanch pearl onions in a 2-quart saucepan of boiling water 2 minutes, then drain and cool in an ice bath to stop cooking. Peel onions and trim, leaving root ends intact.
Step 2
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 5-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Brown seitan in 3 batches, turning occasionally, 3 to 5 minutes (add 2 tablespoons oil between batches). Transfer to a plate.
Step 3
Cook leeks in remaining 3 tablespoons oil with 1/4 teaspoon salt in pot over medium heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Step 4
Add mushrooms and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until they just begin to give off liquid, about 5 minutes. Add carrots, parsnips, thyme, and rosemary and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a bowl.
Step 5
Add wine to pot and boil until reduced to about 1 cup, 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 6
While wine reduces, make a beurre manié by stirring together butter and flour in a small bowl to form a paste.
Step 7
Add stock to wine and bring to a brisk simmer. Whisk in beurre manié, then simmer, whisking occasionally, until thickened slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Add seitan, pearl onions, and vegetable mixture to pot and simmer, covered, 30 minutes.
Step 8
Remove from heat and stir in parsley.
Make topping while stew simmers:
Step 9
Peel potatoes and cut into 2-inch pieces. Cover potatoes and celery root with cold water in a 4-to 5-quart heavy pot, then simmer, partially covered, until very tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain in a colander.
Step 10
Bring butter, milk, and cream to a simmer in pot over medium heat, stirring until butter has melted. Stir in reserved cooking water, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Remove from heat. Force potatoes and celery root through ricer into hot milk mixture and stir gently to combine.
Finish pie:
Step 11
Preheat broiler. Put baking dish in a large 4-sided sheet pan and transfer stew to dish.
Step 12
Spoon potato mixture over stew and spread evenly to cover. Broil about 3 inches from heat until top is golden, about 5 minutes.
