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Vanilla Semifreddo with Rhubarb Compote

In Italy, there are many variations of semifreddo, which, literally translated, means “partially frozen.” Sometimes a semifreddo is made from sponge cake layered with slightly frozen cream; other times it’s cake-free, simply a lighter version of ice cream. At Lucques, we make this semifreddo from an uncooked “custard” base that has beaten egg whites (to make it buoyant and light) and whipped cream (to prevent it from freezing completely) folded into it. The result is a creamy frozen dessert that doesn’t require an ice cream maker or a true custard cooked at the stovetop. Strawberry and rhubarb are a classic combination, but though it’s tempting to temper the sourness of the rhubarb with sweet strawberries, I prefer the intense mouth-puckering quality of rhubarb on its own. This is a great party dessert since you can prepare all the components ahead of time.

Cooks' Note

The semifreddo needs to be made at least 4 hours ahead (preferably the day before), so it has time to set completely.

Ingredients

About 1 teaspoon flavorless oil for greasing the pan
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean
3 extra-large eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2/3 cup granulated sugar
Rhubarb compote (recipe follows)

Rhubarb Compote

1 pound rhubarb
1/2 vanilla bean
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup white wine
3/4 teaspoon cornstarch

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Lightly oil a 9-inch round cake pan and line it with plastic wrap, tucking the wrap into the corners and smoothing it out completely with your hands. Let the excess plastic drape over the sides of the pan.

    Step 2

    In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream at medium speed, until it forms stiff peaks. Transfer the whipped cream to another bowl, cover, and chill while you make the rest of the dessert. Wash and dry the mixing bowl and whisk attachment.

    Step 3

    Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Use a paring knife to scrape the seeds and pulp into the mixing bowl. Add the egg yolks, vanilla extract, and half of the sugar, and mix at high speed with the whisk attachment about 3 minutes, until the mixture is thick and light-colored and has doubled in volume. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Wash and dry the mixing bowl and whisk attachment.

    Step 4

    Whip the egg whites at medium speed about 1 minute, until frothy. Turn the speed up to high, and slowly pour in the remaining 1/3 cup sugar. Whip on high speed about 4 minutes, until stiff peaks have formed.

    Step 5

    Fold the chilled whipped cream into the yolk mixture. Then gently fold in the egg whites, a third at a time. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and tap the pan on the counter three times. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the surface, smoothing it with your hands (wrinkles in the plastic wrap will leave lines on the semifreddo). Fold the draping plastic wrap over the edges, and freeze for at least 4 hours.

    Step 6

    Take the semifreddo out of the freezer 10 minutes before serving. Spoon a little rhubarb compote onto six plates. Cut six slices from the semifreddo and place them on the plates over the compote. Spoon a little more compote over the top of each slice of the semifreddo. Pass the remaining compote at the table.

  2. Rhubarb Compote

    Step 7

    Cut the rhubarb stalks in half lengthwise, and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch-long pieces.

    Step 8

    Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use a paring knife to scrape the seeds and pulp into a medium pan. Add the vanilla pod, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water. Without stirring, bring the ingredients to a boil over medium heat. Continue cooking for about 8 minutes, swirling the pan once in a while, until you have a deep golden brown caramel. Immediately toss in half the rhubarb and all the wine. The caramel will seize up and harden slightly. Turn the heat down to medium and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, breaking up the rhubarb, until it’s jammy. Stir in the rest of the rhubarb and 1/2 cup water. Cook a few minutes until the rhubarb is tender but not mushy. Remove the pan from the heat, and strain the rhubarb over a bowl. Return the liquid to the pan, and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat.

    Step 9

    Meanwhile, stir 1 tablespoon water into the cornstarch (this is called a “slurry” and will help thicken the fruit juices). Whisk the slurry into the liquid, and let it come back to a boil, stirring continuously. Cook over medium heat a few minutes, until the liquid is shiny and thickened. Pour the liquid back into the bowl, and stir in the rhubarb. Chill before serving.

  3. Note

    Step 10

    The semifreddo needs to be made at least 4 hours ahead (preferably the day before), so it has time to set completely.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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