Tagliatelle with Romagnola Tomato Sauce
Just as the Neapolitans have their marinara, Romagnola cuisine also offers a savory, meatless tomato sauce as an essential pasta dressing. This version is made from fresh tomatoes—round, plum, or small cherry tomatoes can all be used—and cooks in the time it takes to heat the pasta water. A small amount of tomato paste is called for, and although you can omit it, I think it lends complexity to the sauce and makes it cling to the golden ribbons of tagliatelle so much better. This recipe makes enough for one batch of fresh tagliatelle, but if you have plenty of fresh tomatoes, you should certainly double the sauce formula and freeze half to use another time.
Recipe information
Yield
makes sauce for 1 batch (1 1/2 pounds) tagliatelle or other pasta, serving 6
Ingredients
FOR THE SAUCE
FOR THE PASTA
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
Preparation
Step 1
For the sauce: Core the tomatoes, and cut them in half. With round or plum tomatoes, squeeze out seeds into a sieve placed over a bowl—save the juices and discard the seeds—then chop the tomatoes into 3/4-inch pieces. Cherry tomatoes need only be cut in half.
Step 2
Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter the garlic slices in the pan, and heat for a minute or so, until they start sizzling. Toss in the rosemary sprig and peperoncino, let them heat for a few moments, then drop the tomato paste into a clear hot spot in the pan bottom. Toast the tomato paste for a minute, then pour in the chopped tomatoes, sprinkle on the salt, and stir all together.
Step 3
Cook the tomatoes for a couple of minutes, until they begin to release their liquid. Pour in the reserved tomato juices from the bowl, along with 1/2 cup or so of water (use it to slosh out the tomato bowl). Bring the sauce to a boil, then adjust heat to keep it perking steadily. Cook, uncovered, until tomatoes break down into a chunky sauce, about 10 to 12 minutes. When the sauce is done, stir in the parsley and turn off the heat (or keep it barely simmering if you are ready to cook the pasta).
Step 4
To cook the tagliatelle: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Shake the nests of tagliatelle in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour. Drop all the pasta into the pot at once, and stir to loosen and separate the strands. Cover the pot, and return the water to a boil rapidly. Set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes or more, until barely al dente (it will cook a bit more in the sauce).
Step 5
Have the tomato sauce at a simmer; if it has cooled and thickened, loosen it with a bit of the hot pasta-cooking water. Lift the tagliatelle from the cooking pot quickly, with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop into the simmering ragù. Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked. Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.
Step 6
Turn off the heat, sprinkle 1/2 cup or so of grated cheese over the tagliatelle, and toss well. Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over, and toss again. Heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table.
