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Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs

This is the dish to make in the middle of the summer when heirloom tomatoes are everywhere. I can think of few more satisfying things to eat. Bottarga, considered the caviar of Sicily, is a delicacy made by drying tuna or mullet roe in the sun until it forms a dense, rust-colored block. Here, it’s shaved and tossed into the pasta, adding a deep oceany essence and salty-savory contrast to the sweet summer tomatoes.

Cooks' Note

I like to cook the noodles in the sauce for at least a few minutes. The pasta gets nicely glazed and coated with the sauce and the flavors have a chance to meld. Also, I have made this dish many times without the bottarga—it’s delicious both ways.

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 sprig rosemary
2 chiles de árbol, crumbled with your hands
2 cups sliced red onion
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
1/4 cup sliced garlic
1 pound spaghetti
2 pounds very ripe heirloom tomatoes, chopped
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup sliced basil
1/4 cup sliced flat-leaf parsley
Small chunk bottarga di tonno, shaved or thinly sliced to equal 1/4 to 1/2 cup
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 375°F.

    Step 2

    Put a large pot of heavily salted water on to boil over high heat.

    Step 3

    Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons olive oil, spread them on a baking sheet, and toast 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden brown.

    Step 4

    Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, and add the rosemary and crumbled chiles. Let them sizzle in the oil a minute or so, and then add the sliced onion and thyme. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and some pepper. Turn the heat down to medium, and cook 3 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the garlic, and cook another 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent and starting to color slightly.

    Step 5

    Drop the pasta in the boiling water.

    Step 6

    Turn the heat under the onions back up to high, and add the tomatoes to the pan with 1 teaspoon salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Stir the tomatoes often, and cook about 8 minutes, until their juices are released and start to reduce.

    Step 7

    When the pasta is al dente, drain it and add it to the tomatoes. Toss well, add the butter, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, to reduce the juices so they coat the noodles well. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and taste. Add the basil, parsley, and half the bottarga to the pan, and toss to combine. Transfer to a large warm pasta bowl or platter. Shower the breadcrumbs over the pasta, and scatter the remaining bottarga shavings on top.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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