Soft-Shell Crabs with Lima Bean Salad, Grilled Bacon, and Cornbread
Every summer when my husband, David, and I visit his parents, we arrive at their house to a feast of peel-and-eat shrimp, Jean’s crab salad, and of course enough “softies” to feed the entire neighborhood. On the Eastern Shore of Maryland, soft-shell crabs (blue crabs that have molted their shells) are a grand tradition. The season starts in late spring and continues through the summer. Crabbers must be vigilant: there is only a 4- to 5-hour window during which molting blue crabs are in the “soft-shell” stage, after which their new shells harden if they are not removed from the water. David keeps his Maryland pride alive while living on the West Coast. Every year when crab season starts, his father ships us a few flats of live crabs, and we throw a decadent soft-shell party. We decided that if our humble castle had a coat of arms, it would be two crossed strips of bacon with a soft-shell crab in the center
Ingredients
Lima bean salad
Cornbread
Preparation
Step 1
Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking.
Step 2
Cut the bacon into 3/8-inch-thick slices, and then cut each slice in half, into 4-inch lengths.
Step 3
Stir the mustard and crème fraîche together in a small bowl. Taste for seasoning. The mixture usually doesn’t need salt.
Step 4
To clean the crabs, use scissors to remove the gills, then the pouch, and then the eyes. Dredge the crabs in the flour. Season them with some pepper. (In my experience, they don’t usually need salt.)
Step 5
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, place the bacon on the grill and cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side, rotating often, until it’s tender and a little crisped. If the fire flares up under the bacon, move the slices to the sides of the grill, away from the direct heat. Transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Slice half the cornbread into 1/2-inch-thick pieces and butter them lightly. (You will not need the other half of the cornbread for this recipe.) Place the cornbread on the grill and cook, rotating a few times, to brown nicely on both sides without burning.
Step 6
Meanwhile, heat two large sauté pans over high heat for 1 minute. Pour 1/4 inch vegetable oil into the pans. Heat the oil until it shimmers and is not quite smoking. Turn the heat down to medium, and carefully lay the crabs in the pan, soft-shell side down. Cook the crabs over medium heat 5 to 7 minutes. Do not shake the pan or move the crabs. When the first sides are crisp, turn the crabs over and cook another 3 minutes or so, until the crabs are cooked through. Peek under the shell to check that the flesh is opaque. Remove the crabs to a paper towel-lined baking sheet.
Step 7
Place the grilled cornbread on a large platter. Scatter the arugula over the cornbread, and top with the grilled bacon. Spoon the lima bean salad over and around the cornbread and bacon. Arrange the crabs on top, and dollop each one with mustard crème fraîche.
Lima bean salad
Step 8
To cook the lima beans: Heat a medium saucepan over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and add the onion, garlic, and thyme. Sauté over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the beans, and cook a few minutes, stirring often to coat the beans with the onion and oil. Season with salt and pepper, and add enough water to cover the beans by a few inches. Simmer 5 to 7 minutes, until the beans are just tender. Cool and store the beans in the cooking liquid.
Step 9
To make the salad: Combine the shallots, lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in 5 tablespoons olive oil. Drain the cooled beans well and toss them with this vinaigrette and a pinch of salt and pepper. Taste for seasoning and stir in the herbs.
Cornbread
Step 10
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Step 11
Heat a 10-inch cast-iron pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Add 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter and cook 4 to 5 minutes, swirling the pan often, until the butter browns and smells nutty. Turn off the heat.
Step 12
Combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients.
Step 13
Whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, and honey in another bowl. Pour the liquid into the well, and whisk until just combined. (Don’t overwork the batter.) Fold in the brown butter.
Step 14
Return the cast-iron pan to the stove over medium-high heat. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and when it foams pour the batter into the pan. Transfer the pan immediately to the oven, and bake 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown and set.
Note
Step 15
Fine-milled Wondra flour helps to get a really delicate and crisp crust on the crabs. It is available at most supermarkets. Substitute all-purpose flour if you can’t find it. To prepare for this dish you can cut the bacon, cook the lima beans, bake the cornbread, and make the mustard crème fraîche all ahead of time.
