Skillet Gratinate of Zucchini and Chicken
You may be surprised to find recipes with chicken, veal, and pork cutlets in my vegetable chapter. But the inspiration for this distinctive group of dishes is the vegetables that cover and surround the small portions of meat. When zucchini, eggplant, and (especially) tomatoes are at their best in the summer—and when I’ve an abundance of fresh tomato sauce in the refrigerator and freezer—I cook these beautiful one-pot dinners. I call these “skillet gratinati” because a large skillet or sauté pan is an essential part of the cooking. First you sauté your vegetables (in some instances) in the skillet; then you gently brown the meat cutlets in the skillet; then you layer lovely individual servings in the skillet; and then you develop your sauce in the skillet. Finally, you place the whole skillet in a hot oven, where the meat and vegetables cook until tender, the sauce thickens, and the crowning layer of grated cheese turns into a golden, crisp gratinato. (The whole cooking process takes little more than half an hour.) The first stage, on top of the stove, is the most fun, when you create your main dish and sauce in one pan in minutes. Having all your components ready and staying close to the pan will ensure success with this simple dish. The gratinati here are similar in technique but offer different ideas for ingredients. The most detailed instruction is in the main recipe that follows, with briefer descriptions in the equally delicious variations (page 315 and page 317). Once you understand the process, do experiment, using different meats, vegetables, herbs, and sauces—make the skillet-gratinate technique your own.
*I recommend 3 small whole chicken breasts, or 6 breast halves, weighing 2 pounds. If you have only larger breast halves (some are 8 to 10 ounces), you can slice each in 2, on the bias, to make 2 portions.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
For the Sauce
Recommended Equipment
Preparation
Preparing the Chicken and Zucchini
Step 1
Place a rack in the center or upper third of the oven and preheat to 425°.
Step 2
If the chicken breasts are whole, cut them in half. Trim off any bits of fat, skin, or tendon. Flatten each breast half with a mallet (or the flat bottom of a heavy pan) to an even thickness, about 3/4 inch.
Step 3
Trim the stem and blossom ends of the zucchini and wash well. Slice across the squash on a sharp angle, creating long ovals, 1/4 inch thick. You should have about twenty pieces at least 3 inches long, and a few shorter pieces from the ends.
Step 4
Put 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in the skillet, tilt to coat the bottom, and set it over medium heat.
Step 5
Toss about half the zucchini pieces in flour to coat well (set flour aside to use for chicken), pat off any excess, and lay them in the pan. Keep the heat moderate, and let the pieces caramelize slowly for about 4 minutes. Turn when the edges are nicely browned on the underside; fry for about 2 minutes on the second side. With a slotted spatula, lift the pieces to a plate or tray (no paper towels are needed here) and salt lightly. Fry the remaining zucchini ovals in the same way and salt them. While frying, monitor the heat, keeping it high enough to brown the zucchini but not let them burn.
Step 6
When the zucchini are done, turn off the heat but leave all the oil in the skillet.
Starting on the Stovetop
Step 7
Have all of your gratinate and sauce ingredients handy to the stove.
Step 8
You should have at least 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the skillet (add a bit if needed). Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and set the pan over medium-low heat.
Step 9
Salt the chicken pieces lightly, flop them in the dredging flour to coat on both sides, and pat off excess. When the butter is just beginning to sizzle, arrange all six cutlets in the pan. Cook them gently for 1 1/2 minutes, then turn them over; they should be very lightly colored, with no browning.
Step 10
Maintain the gentle cooking while you assemble the gratinate.
Step 11
Sprinkle the chicken again with salt (using 1/2 teaspoon total for the dish).
Step 12
Spread a heaping tablespoon of tomato sauce on top of each cutlet.
Step 13
Arrange the zucchini slices on top of the sauced chicken, overlapping the ovals so each portion is neatly covered. Use all the zucchini.
Step 14
Now raise the heat a bit and begin to develop the sauce:
Step 15
Sprinkle the peperoncino onto an open “hot spot” where it will sizzle and toast briefly.
Step 16
Drop the remaining butter, in small pieces, in between the layered cutlets.
Step 17
After a few seconds, pour in 2/3 cup of the wine around the cutlets and let it heat briefly, 10 to 20 seconds.
Step 18
Spoon the rest of the cup of tomato sauce into the pan (not on the chicken).
Step 19
Bring to a simmer, then drop the mint into the sauce all around the pan.
Step 20
Give the pan a gentle shake or two, to mix and emulsify the sauce ingredients.
Step 21
Finally, sprinkle 2 tablespoons of grated cheese evenly over each zucchini-topped mound.
Step 22
At this point, the sauce should be about 1/3 inch deep in your pan or even higher, coming well up the sides of the chicken cutlets. If not, pour in the rest of the wine and as much hot vegetable broth or stock as necessary. Raise the heat again to bring the pan sauce to an active simmer.
Finishing in the Oven
Step 23
When the sauce is simmering, place the skillet in the oven. (Put the handle in front and the food in the back.)
Step 24
Bake for about 10 minutes—and have thick pot holders or dry towels in hand before you touch the handle or the skillet!—then open the oven and check the pan.
Step 25
Right on the rack, give the skillet another gentle shake. There should still be plenty of sauce, and the cheese should be lightly colored. If the sauce appears syrupy, or close to evaporating, add more vegetable broth, stock, tomato sauce, or wine to raise the level.
Step 26
Bake for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the chicken is fully cooked and tender and the gratinate top is deeply and evenly browned. If the cheese layer still appears too light, raise the heat in the oven as high as possible (turn on the broiler if it is top-mounted) and bake briefly until it is as dark and crispy as you like.
Step 27
Carefully remove the skillet from the oven, handling it with plenty of thick cloths. I carry it right to the dining table, where it makes a beautiful presentation (see the photo on page 286). While it is on the table, leave the cloths covering the hot handle. With a large, angled spatula, lift one portion of chicken-and-zucchini gratinate onto a dinner plate, then spoon over it some of the sauce.
