Shanghai Pork, Bamboo, and Mushroom Spring Rolls
There are numerous fillings for fried spring rolls, and this one is my take on an old-fashioned Shanghai filling. The surf-and-turf combination of pork and shrimp is punctuated by earthy bamboo shoots and shiitake mushrooms. Whereas the Cantonese filling on page 79 is savory-sweet (and can be used here), this filling is more robust and offers wonderful depth, so much so that dunking them in a touch of vinegar is all you need to create a wonderful mouthful. Most spring roll fillings are cooked first because the frying is fast, and you want to ensure that the meat is cooked and that there’s a minimum of moisture, so the skins don’t soften up too much as they sit once out of the fryer. When preparing this and other similar fillings, cut the main ingredients so that they match in size and roll up well. I typically buy pork tenderloin steaks and freeze them for 10 to 15 minutes to make them easier to cut. Canned bamboo shoots work well so long as they first are boiled briefly to eliminate any tinny flavor. Spring rolls are great as a snack but also terrific for a light lunch along with a green salad.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 18 to 20 rolls, serving 4 to 6 as a light main course, 6 to 8 for a snack
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
To make the filling, combine the sugar, the 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch, and the soy sauce in a bowl. Add the pork and shrimp and stir to coat well. Set aside.
Step 2
Put the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch into a small bowl and dissolve it in 3 tablespoons of the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. (Use water or stock if you mistakenly discarded the liquid.) Set aside.
Step 3
Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the ginger and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds or until fragrant. Remove the garlic and ginger with a slotted spoon and discard. Add the pork and shrimp mixture, stirring constantly to separate the pork into shreds and shrimp into nuggets, and cook just through, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Add the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil to the skillet. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until the bean sprouts are soft and just cooked through. The mixture will be about half of the original volume. Return the pork and shrimp to the skillet and stir to combine. When heated through, about 45 seconds, lower the heat slightly. Give the cornstarch mixture a stir and pour over the filling mixture. Cook for about 30 seconds, to bind the mixture. Transfer to a platter and spread out. Set aside to cool completely before using. You should have about 3 cups. (The filling can be prepared 2 days in advance, covered, and refrigerated after cooling. Return to room temperature before wrapping.)
Step 4
Before assembling the spring rolls, line a baking sheet with parchment paper. For each spring roll, place a skin, smooth side down, on your work surface. Place a generous 2 tablespoons of filling slightly below the center of the skin. Follow the directions on page 75 to create a cigar shape. Before folding in the sides, brush some beaten egg on all of the exposed edges to ensure a good seal. Set the finished rolls, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Keep them covered with a kitchen towel to prevent drying. (To freeze, put them on a baking sheet, about 1/2 inch apart, and slide them into the freezer. After they have hardened, about 1 hour, transfer them to a zip-top bag and keep frozen. Fry them unthawed. They will take a little longer than 3 minutes but will be just fine.)
Step 5
Heat 1 inch of oil in a wok, saucepan, or deep skillet over medium-high heat to about 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. (If you don’t have a deep-fry thermometer, stick a dry bamboo chopstick into the oil; if bubbles rise immediately to the surface and encircle the chopstick, the oil is ready.) Slide in a few spring rolls and fry, turning as needed, for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown and very crisp. Remove from the oil and drain. Return the oil to temperature, then repeat with the remaining rolls. After all the rolls are fried, you may refry them for 30 seconds in 350°F oil to quickly reheat. (Alternatively, keep the rolls in a warm oven during frying.)
Step 6
Serve the spring rolls hot, whole or halved diagonally, with the vinegar as a dipping sauce.
