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Seasonal Risotto

We change up our risotto at least once a week at the Shop, so we have sixty or seventy rotating variations that reflect each season. Here are five of our favorites, one from each season, along with a classic basic recipe and a Venetian saffron variation. When making risotto, remember that the key is to stir the rice vigorously for the first half of the cooking process to create the creamy texture that is essential to the dish. Once the rice kernels become soft, stir more gently so as not to break them up.

Ingredients

Basic Risotto

4 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon salt or more to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
(serves 4 to 6)

Spring: Pea, Carrot, and Chive Risotto

2 cups fresh or frozen peas
3 carrots, finely diced
1/2 cup chopped fresh chives

Summer: Fava Bean, Spinach, and Mushroom Risotto

1 cup fresh fava beans
One 9-ounce bag baby spinach leaves, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 ounces wild or white button mushrooms, wiped clean and roughly chopped
Pinch of salt

Fall: Fennel Risotto

Fronds (green leafy tops) from 2 fennel bulbs, finely diced (about 1 cup)
1 onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon ground toasted fennel seed

Winter: Prosciutto Risotto

1/2 pound prosciutto, finely chopped

Variation: Saffron Risotto

1 teaspoon saffron threads
1/4 cup warm water

Preparation

  1. Basic Risotto

    Step 1

    Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium pot over medium-high heat and lower the flame to a simmer.

    Step 2

    Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

    Step 3

    Add the rice and continue to cook, stirring constantly, for 4 minutes. Add the white wine and salt and continue to cook, stirring vigorously, until the wine has completely evaporated. Add 1 cup of the chicken stock and continue to cook and stir vigorously. When the chicken stock has been almost completely absorbed, about 7 minutes, add another cup of the chicken stock and continue to cook, stirring constantly but not vigorously. When the chicken stock has been almost completely absorbed, add the remaining 2 1/2 cups chicken stock and continue to cook, for a total cooking time of about 25 minutes, stirring gently so that the rice does not stick.

    Step 4

    Stir in the butter and Parmesan and mix to incorporate. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a platter or serving plates and finish with a generous turn of the pepper mill.

  2. Spring: Pea, Carrot, and Chive Risotto

    Step 5

    Bring a medium pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the peas and carrots and boil for 2 minutes (if using frozen peas, then just cook the carrots). Strain the vegetables through a fine-mesh sieve and cool under cold running water. Set aside.

    Step 6

    Add the cooked peas and carrots and the chives to the risotto when you add the butter and Parmesan.

  3. Summer: Fava Bean, Spinach, and Mushroom Risotto

    Step 7

    To shuck the fava beans, bring a medium pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Meanwhile, fill a small bowl with ice water.

    Step 8

    When the water is boiling, add the fava beans and cook for 90 seconds. Immediately remove the beans with a strainer and place them in the cold water until cool, about 2 minutes. Keep the pan of water at a boil. Drain the beans, then peel off the tough outer skins; set aside. Add the spinach to the boiling water, and cook for 1 minute. Strain the spinach and beans and cool under cold running water. Set aside.

    Step 9

    Heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms and salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms begin to brown. Remove them from the heat and set aside.

    Step 10

    Add the cooked beans, spinach, and mushrooms to the risotto when you add the butter and Parmesan.

  4. Fall: Fennel Risotto

    Step 11

    Instead of adding the 2 tablespoons butter from the Basic Risotto recipe at the end, melt them at the beginning of cooking in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Then, add the fresh fennel, onions, and ground fennel and cook, stirring frequently, until the fresh fennel is soft and the onions are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add a few tablespoons of water, if necessary, to ensure that the vegetables do not brown. Set aside and proceed with the recipe as directed

    Step 12

    Add the cooked fennel mixture to the risotto when you add the Parmesan at the end.

  5. Winter: Prosciutto Risotto

    Step 13

    Add the prosciutto along with the onions at the beginning of the cooking process.

  6. Variation: Saffron Risotto

    Step 14

    Soak the saffron threads in the warm water for 5 minutes. Set aside. Add the saffron to the risotto along with the final addition of chicken stock. Proceed with the recipe as directed.

Reprinted with permission from The Meatball Shop Cookbook by Daniel Holzman and Michael Chernow with Lauren Deen. Copyright © 2011 by Daniel Holzman and Michael Chernow; photographs copyright © 2011 by John Kernick. Published by Ballantine Books, an imprint of The Random House Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. Daniel Holzman is executive chef at The Meatball Shop. He is an alum of Le Bernadin, San Francisco's Fifth Floor, and Aqua, among other highly acclaimed restaurants. He attended the Culinary Institute of America, where he received a full scholarship from the James Beard Foundation. Michael Chernow runs the front-of-house operations and the beverage program at The Meatball Shop. He has worked extensively in restaurants in New York and Los Angeles. He is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, where he earned degrees in culinary arts and restaurant management. He and Holzman met as teenagers when they worked together as delivery boys at the New York vegan restaurant Candle Café. Needless to say, the vegan thing didn't really stick. Lauren Deen is the author of the New York Times bestselling Cook Yourself Thin series and Kitchen Playdates. She is an Emmy award—and James Beard award— winning television producer and director. She is currently executive producer of food(ography) on the Cooking Channel.
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