Sautéed Skate with Parsnip Purée, Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta, and Balsamic Brown

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Preheat the oven to 225°F.

   Step 2

   Place the flour on a large plate or pie pan for dredging. Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper (skate can sometimes be salty, so go easy on the seasoning). Dredge the fish in the flour, coating both sides well.

   Step 3

   Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil and wait a minute. (You will probably need to cook the fish in two batches or two pans.) Place the fish in the pan and cook about 3 minutes, until the skate is nicely browned. Turn the fish over, turn the heat down to medium, and cook another minute or so. Transfer to a rack set on a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.

   Step 4

   Pour the oil from the pan and discard it. Wipe the pan clean, and return it to the stove over medium heat. Swirl in the butter and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until it browns and smells nutty. Turn off the heat and add the balsamic vinegar. Swirl the pan to combine the vinegar with the butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Be careful not to burn your tongue!)

   Step 5

   Spoon the hot parsnip purée onto a large warm platter. Place half of the hot Brussels sprouts over the purée, and arrange the fish on top. Scatter the remaining Brussels sprouts over and around the fish. Stir the parsley into the balsamic brown butter, and spoon the sauce over the fish.

2. Parsnip purée

   Step 6

   Place the potatoes and parsnips in two medium sauce pots. Add 1 tablespoon salt to each pot, and then fill the pots with cold water. Bring both pots to a boil over high heat, then turn down the heat and simmer until tender.

   Step 7

   When the potatoes and parsnips are cooked through, strain them and set them aside to cool for a moment. In a small saucepan, heat the cream and milk together, and then turn off the heat. Pass the potatoes and parsnips through a food mill or potato ricer, and transfer to a heavy-bottomed pot. Stir over medium heat with a wooden spoon to dry them out. Then, slowly, add in the chunks of butter, stirring all the while with the wooden spoon. Season with 2 teaspoons kosher salt.

   Step 8

   When all the butter has been incorporated, slowly stir in the warm cream mixture until you have a smooth purée. Taste for seasoning and pass through a fine-mesh tamis if you like.

3. Balsamic-braised brussels sprouts with pancetta

   Step 9

   Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in the olive oil and butter, and wait another minute. Add the Brussels sprouts, and season them with 1 teaspoon salt and some pepper. Shake the pan, rolling the Brussels sprouts around to help them brown evenly. After a few minutes, turn the heat to medium, and cook another 3 to 4 minutes, until the sprouts soften slightly.

   Step 10

   Add the diced pancetta to the pan and cook a minute or two, until it starts to crisp. Stir in the shallots and garlic, and cook another minute or so, until they’re translucent. Pour in the balsamic vinegar and reduce by half. Add the veal stock and reduce to about 1/4 cup, stirring and shaking the pan often to glaze the Brussels sprouts. If you start to run low on liquid before the sprouts are cooked, add a little water to the pan. Serve immediately, or transfer to a baking sheet to cool.

4. Note

   Step 11

   You can make the parsnip purée and balsamic-braised Brussels sprouts ahead of time and then gently rewarm them right before serving.

5. Step 12

   Wondra flour, a finely milled flour available at most supermarkets, gives a delicate crust. But if you can’t find it, all-purpose flour will do.