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Salmon with Choucroute and Gewürztraminer Sauce

This unexpected salmon preparation borrows flavors from Alsace. The usual partner for choucroute is a medley of pork meat sausages, but the oceany flavor of the best wild salmon works surprisingly well. The tart sauerkraut and spicy Gewürztraminer balance the richness of the fish. Juniper berries lend a distinct perfume. Needless to say, the perfect wine for this dish is the one that you used to make the sauce.

Cooks' Note

At Bayona, we use plain bread crumbs for this dish. But for a little more texture, try panko, Japanese bread crumbs (available at specialty markets and many grocery stores).
Beurre blancs, or butter sauces, are known for breaking. Luckily it’s a cinch to repair them. To fix a broken beurre blanc, skim the butter off the top and reserve the separated part of the sauce. In a small clean saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of water to a simmer and whisk in the reserved sauce. Over a very gentle heat, whisk in the butter, a bit at a time, and the reserved sauce base should pull together.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 4 servings

Ingredients

Choucroute

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and julienned
1 (16-ounce) jar sauerkraut, rinsed
1 cup Chicken Stock (p. 206)
1/4 cup white wine
1/2 teaspoon coarsely chopped whole juniper berries
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Snipped fresh chives, for garnish

Gewüztraminer Sauce

1 cup Gewürztraminer (you can substitute Riesling or another Alsatian white wine)
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
Pinch of salt

Salmon

4 salmon fillets (about 6 ounces each)
Salt and pepper
1 cup dry bread crumbs, mixed with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter

Preparation

  1. Choucroute

    Step 1

    Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook, stirring, until just wilted. Stir in the sauerkraut, stock, wine, and seasonings. Bring to a simmer and cook, covered, about 15 minutes, then set aside, still covered, to keep warm.

  2. Gewürztraminer Sauce

    Step 2

    Combine the wine, vinegar, and shallots in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced to 2-3 tablespoons. Gradually add butter, in small pieces, whisking constantly, until all the butter is incorporated. The sauce should be a shiny, creamy yellow. Add salt. Taste, and adjust seasonings.

  3. Salmon

    Step 3

    Season the salmon with salt and pepper and coat with the bread crumb mixture. Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. When it is very hot but not smoking, add the salmon, presentation side down. Lower the heat to medium, add the butter, and use a spatula to lift the salmon, to allow butter to run under each fillet. Cook until it is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook about 3 more minutes, until salmon is just medium-rare. Cook a little longer if you like it more done, but not long enough to dry it out.

  4. To Serve

    Step 4

    Divide the choucroute among four plates, top with a piece of salmon, and drizzle the sauce around the fish. Garnish with chives.

  5. Notes

    Step 5

    At Bayona, we use plain bread crumbs for this dish. But for a little more texture, try panko, Japanese bread crumbs (available at specialty markets and many grocery stores).

  6. Step 6

    Beurre blancs, or butter sauces, are known for breaking. Luckily it’s a cinch to repair them. To fix a broken beurre blanc, skim the butter off the top and reserve the separated part of the sauce. In a small clean saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of water to a simmer and whisk in the reserved sauce. Over a very gentle heat, whisk in the butter, a bit at a time, and the reserved sauce base should pull together.

From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf. Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook. Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.
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