Risotto with Radicchio

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Separate the radicchio leaves, discarding the outer leaves and any that are wilted or damaged. Trim and discard the thick leaf bottoms and tough sections of the central ribs. Slice the leaves in long shreds, about 1/2 inch thick. Heat 8 cups water almost to the boil. Keep it very hot, simmering near the risotto pan.

   Step 2

   Put the olive oil in the saucepan, and set over medium heat. Scatter in the bacon pieces and cook briefly, until the fat renders, then stir in the onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are wilted and lightly colored and the bacon is slightly crisped, 8 minutes or so.

   Step 3

   Pour in the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir continuously for about 2 minutes, until the rice grains are toasted (but not browned). Pour in the wine and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all the liquid has been absorbed.

   Step 4

   Drop all of the shredded radicchio into the saucepan, and stir in with the rice for a couple of minutes, as the shreds wilt and release liquid. Then ladle in 2 cups of the simmering water and cook, stirring, until the water is almost absorbed, 5 minutes or more. Quickly ladle in another couple of cups of water, add another 1/2 teaspoon salt, and keep stirring, as the rice releases its starches and a thick, creamy suspension starts to form. Again, when the water is almost absorbed—and you can see the bottom of the saucepan as you stir—ladle in another cup or so of water. Continue this process.

   Step 5

   After the risotto has cooked for 15 to 20 minutes and incorporated 6 cups of water, taste for texture and seasoning: add more salt and/or incorporate more hot water as needed. When the risotto is al dente and creamy, turn off the heat. Drop in the butter pieces and stir in vigorously, along with the 1/2 cup of grated cheese.

   Step 6

   Serve without delay, heaping the risotto in warm pasta bowls, and pass more grated cheese at the table.