Pot-Au-Feu
Pot-au-feu (literally “pot on the fire”) is sometimes described as the national dish of France. It certainly embodies one of that country’s primary tenets of cooking: taking inexpensive and widely available ingredients and, with a bit of careful tending-to and extended cooking, turning them into a dish fit for a king. Calling it a one-pot dish, however, is a bit of a misnomer; sure, most everything is cooked in the same pot, just not at the same time (the potatoes are always cooked separately). What you end up with is a multifaceted meal that retains the taste of each of its components. If you want to follow tradition, serve the broth as a separate course, then present the sliced meat and vegetables on a platter. Choose among mandatory accompaniments—fresh horseradish, assorted mustards, cornichons (or gherkins), and sea salt—and be sure to offer toasted bread for spreading with the marrow scooped from the bones.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 8 to 10
Ingredients
For first stage
For second stage
For serving
Preparation
Step 1
Prepare first stage Wrap the short ribs in a single layer of cheesecloth and tie with butcher’s twine to form a neat bundle; this helps keep the meat on the bones during cooking and makes for easy removal when they’re done. Place ribs in a very large stockpot along with the veal bones and brisket and add enough water to cover everything by about 1 inch (8 to 9 quarts should be enough). Set over high heat and bring to a simmer (this will take about 35 minutes), then continue simmering over moderate heat for 30 minutes, skimming any foam that rises to the surface.
Step 2
Meanwhile, make a sachet by placing the thyme, peppercorns, parsley, bay leaves, and garlic on a large square of cheesecloth, then gathering the edges to form a bundle and tie tightly with twine.
Step 3
In a small sauté pan over medium-high heat, char one onion half by placing it cut side down into the hot pan for about 5 minutes. Stick the cloves into the cut side of another onion half. Add all of the onion halves to the pot along with the carrots, celery, herb sachet, and 2 tablespoons salt. Return the liquid to a boil and then gently simmer until the meats are almost tender and cooked through, about 2 hours, skimming off surface foam as necessary. Add more water if necessary to keep the ingredients submerged at all times, but don’t worry if they just start to show above the surface of the water. (Add as little water as possible, so as not to dilute the flavor.)
Step 4
Move to second stage Remove the short ribs and brisket from the pot, and cover to keep warm. Then strain the broth through a fine sieve, pressing lightly to extract juices (discard the bones, sachet, and vegetables). You should have about 5 to 6 quarts broth. Return the broth to the cleaned pot and bring it back to a boil. Meanwhile, use twine to tie the leeks into one bundle and the carrots into another. Wrap the marrow bones in cheesecloth and secure with twine.
Step 5
Submerge the chicken in the pot. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, then add the leeks, carrots, and marrow bones along with the turnips and cabbage. Continue simmering another 20 to 30 minutes or until chicken is cooked through and vegetables are tender, removing each as soon as it is ready.
Step 6
Meanwhile, place potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with water; add salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until you can pierce the potatoes with a paring knife, about 15 minutes. Drain them in a colander and cover to keep warm.
Step 7
Serve Thoroughly skim the fat from the surface of the broth, then carefully transfer the vegetables to a large serving platter. Cover with parchment-lined foil and keep warm. Remove the ribs and marrow bones from their bundles, and arrange ribs on the same platter (serve marrow bones on the side, with croutons and salt). Slice the brisket 1/4 inch thick against the grain and arrange on the platter. Finally, add the whole chicken to the platter, and cover to keep warm.
Step 8
Just before serving, ladle a bit of the broth over the meat and vegetables to moisten; pour the rest into a pitcher or bowls and pass at the table (save remaining broth for another use). Serve suggested accompaniments on the side.
Pot-au-Feu Tip
Step 9
You can make the first stage a day before serving and refrigerate the meat in one container, then strain the broth and store it in another. Proceed with the second stage the next day.
Ingredients
Step 10
Any successful pot-au-feu should have a variety of meats; this recipe uses brisket and short ribs, but veal and oxtail are also common. Marrow bones are essential, but poultry is optional (and is classically used in its own dish, called poule au pot). Vegetables are just as important; carrots, cabbage, and turnips are traditional, as are onions often studded with cloves or charred to deepen their flavor.
Step 11
Call your butcher ahead of time to reserve plenty of veal and marrow bones. You might also want to order the brisket in advance (and ask for it to be trimmed); ask for the second cut, as this is the more marbled part.
Equipment
Step 12
This dish requires a very large stockpot, one with at least a 16-quart capacity, to hold all of the ingredients. If you must, divide the ingredients between two smaller pots, but keep the chicken whole.
Step 13
You’ll also need plenty of cheesecloth and kitchen twine.
