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Pâté En Croûte

This is yet another recipe that evokes that nostalgic, “Why don’t people make this anymore?” feeling, like a beautiful picture from the old Larousse, a civil-war reenactment, or sleeping on a train. There is only one good reason to make this dish: because you can! Thankfully, people like Frank, Marco, and Emma (our kitchen mainstays and true Joe Beefers) see the value in making historically relevant dishes like this, and it stays with them forever and can live on. The most difficult part of this recipe is measuring the dough to cover the pâté. Although some pâtés are served hot, the salt content in this one means it only tastes good cold. We serve it with some mustard and a glass of Morgon.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

DOUGH

4 1/2 cups (550 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup (225 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch/6-mm chunks
5 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) water

FILLING

About 1 pound (455 g) ground pork jowl (fresh guanciale)
2 pounds (900 g) ground pork
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon ground mace
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 eggs
1/2 cup (125 ml) whipping cream (35 percent butterfat)
1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water for egg wash
7 sheets gelatin
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry sherry
Salt and pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    To make the dough, in a large bowl, mix together the flour and salt. Scatter the butter over the flour mixture, then squeeze it with your fingers, working it into the flour but still leaving some chunks. Add the eggs and work the dough gently with your hands until malleable. Slowly pour in half the water, mixing it in with your hands. When the water has been absorbed, work in the rest of the water. The dough should be firm and uneven looking.

    Step 2

    Transfer the dough to a floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, flatten the dough into a rectangle. Wrap the rectangle in plastic wrap and place in the fridge for at least 1 hour while you work on your terrine filling.

    Step 3

    To make the filling, in a large bowl, combine the ground meats, garlic, parsley, salt, pepper, mace, and brandy. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, eggs, and cream until well blended. Add the cream mixture to the meat mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until you have one homogenous mix.

    Step 4

    When the dough has rested for 1 hour, preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Then, on a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a rectangle about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. This is the most technical part, because you want to roll enough dough to cover the terrine. We bake this dish in a 10 by 4 by 3 1/4-inch (25 by 10 by 8-cm) Le Creuset pot, but any enameled cast-iron pot of similar size will work well. Place the Creuset on the dough, denting the dough to imprint the size. Then cut out the dough so it is a little larger than the dented pattern, adding flaps on the two short ends (see drawing). Carefully lift up the dough and place it in the Creuset, pressing it down gently. Reserve the extra dough.

    Step 5

    Spoon the meat mixture into the dough-lined Creuset, spreading it evenly and smoothing the top. Fold the dough over the top of the meat mixture so it covers it completely. It doesn’t have to look perfect where the sides meet. Using the extra dough, cut out a strip the length of the pot and lay it across the middle of the terrine to close the seam (as the dough will expand from the heat while baking).

    Step 6

    Brush the dough with the egg wash. You can use any remaining dough to make decorative leaves, letters, or whatever you want and put them on top. Be sure to brush them with the wash, too.

    Step 7

    In the middle of the dough, cut a quarter-size hole using an apple corer or a knife. Using the handle of a wooden spoon as a guide, make a small tube of aluminum foil. This is your chimney for the steam. The chimney is your first rule of pâté en croûte. Trust the chimney! Or, trust you will be cleaning the oven.

    Step 8

    Place in the hot oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. The pâté is ready when an instant-read thermometer inserted through the chimney hole registers 158°F (70°C). Burnt crust or half-cooked meat is not appetizing, so a thermometer is key here.

    Step 9

    In the meantime, bloom the gelatin sheets in a bowl of cool water to cover for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they soften and swell. Put a pot over medium-high heat and add the stock and sherry. Bring the stock mixture to a boil, season generously with salt and pepper, and remove from the heat. Gently squeeze the gelatin sheets, add to the stock mixture, and whisk until completely dissolved.

    Step 10

    Remove the pâté en croûte from the oven and let cool for 45 minutes. Carefully pour the stock mixture into the foil chimney. Let the pâté cool completely before slicing and serving.

Cookbook cover of The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan, and Meredith Erickson.
Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.
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