Pancetta-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin with Tomato Fondue
Our charcuterie supplier, Taylor Boetticher of Napa’s Fatted Calf (opposite page), had the fine idea to wrap a pork tenderloin in a cloak of paper-thin pancetta. The pancetta bastes the lean tenderloin as it cooks, so the meat remains moist. A thyme-scented tomato fondue makes a light, summery accompaniment, suggested by 2009 Workshop participant Scott Gottlich. Add some sautéed Blue Lake beans or a slice of Mediterranean Summer Vegetable Gratin (page 158) to complete the plate. You can roast only one tenderloin, if you like, but you may need to reduce the heat as you sear it because of the reduced volume of meat in the skillet. Do prepare the full amount of tomato fondue, however. You won’t have enough volume for the blender otherwise, and you won’t regret having extra. Note that the pork needs to marinate overnight.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 8
Ingredients
Tomato Fondue
Preparation
Step 1
Ask your butcher or deli clerk to place 15 coiled pancetta slices on each of two sheets of deli paper, arranged in three rows of five slices each. The five slices should overlap slightly, and the rows should overlap slightly. The objective is to create two “beds” of sliced pancetta in which to wrap the tenderloins.
Step 2
Trim the thin silvery membrane, or silverskin, and any external fat from each tenderloin. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Brush mustard all over the tenderloins, then season with thyme.
Step 3
Place a tenderloin on a bed of pancetta. With the aid of the deli paper, roll the loin to encase it in pancetta. Remove the paper. Repeat with the second tenderloin. Place the pancetta-wrapped tenderloins on a tray and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
Step 4
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 5
For the tomato fondue: Put the tomatoes, cut side up, on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with thyme and drizzle with olive oil. Scatter the garlic cloves around the tomatoes. Bake until the tomatoes are tender, 30 to 35 minutes. When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, discard the skins and seeds. Chop the tomatoes coarsely. Squeeze the softened garlic from the skins.
Step 6
Combine the butter, tomatoes, and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring, until the tomatoes collapse into a near puree, about 5 minutes. Puree in a blender. Return to the saucepan and keep warm over low heat.
Step 7
Raise the oven temperature to 400°F. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the tenderloins and sear the pork all over, about 4 minutes total. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the pork registers 140°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 20 minutes. Transfer the tenderloins to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes before carving.
Step 8
Cut each loin into 8 medallions. Put 2 medallions on each dinner plate. Put a dollop of warm tomato fondue on top of the meat or alongside. Serve immediately.
Step 9
Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Anderson Valley Pinot Noir or another medium-bodied red wine.
