Oyster, Eggplant, and Tasso Gratin
If you’re not from Crescent City, this dish might seem like an unlikely trio of ingredients, but it’s my twist on a much-loved Louisiana combination. In New Orleans, we tend to serve oysters with just about anything—especially if there is beer and hot sauce involved. When I’m traveling, or asked to bring New Orleans-style food to other parts of the world, tasso is one of the things I smuggle. Tasso is another Cajun staple—cured, smoked pork (usually the shoulder), seasoned with red pepper, garlic, and various spices and herbs. Tasso is typically vacuum-packed, so it doesn’t spoil easily. Since the flavor is intense, it’s used more as a seasoning. In other words, 3 pounds of tasso provide the same mileage as 10 pounds of andouille—which I’m not willing to schlep. (So far I’ve managed to infiltrate France, Thailand, and England with tasso discreetly nestled in my luggage—and the authorities were none the wiser.) I’m an eggplant freak, and I can eat it any way, anytime. I have yet to find an eggplant dish that I don’t like—unless it’s one that’s undercooked. Eggplant is a great flavor carrier that stands up well to other ingredients. But you can also make this recipe by substituting sautéed spinach or fennel for the eggplant. A gratin is a nifty appetizer because it can be assembled in advance and requires very little last-minute prep.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 4 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 2-quart baking dish or pie pan, or 4–6 individual ramekins.
Step 2
Make the Cheesy Bread Crumb Topping.
Step 3
Pour the oysters into a bowl and check for bits of shell. Drain them and reserve the liquid (known as oyster “liquor”). Strain the liquor through a fine sieve and set aside.
Step 4
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat and whisk in the flour, then add the reserved oyster liquor and broth or milk. Whisking constantly, bring the mixture to a boil. Whisk in the cream, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, stirring from time to time. Season the sauce with salt, pepper, hot sauce, and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. Remove it from the heat; cover to keep warm.
Step 5
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring as needed, until lightly browned. Add the onion, tasso, and garlic and stir in the herbs. Cook for an additional 5–7 minutes, until the eggplant is tender and cooked through. Season with salt and pepper and transfer it to a colander for 5 minutes to drain excess oil.
Step 6
Divide the eggplant mixture among the prepared ramekins or spread into the baking dish. Place the oysters in one layer on top. Drizzle evenly with the sauce and sprinkle on the topping. Bake for 10 minutes, until golden brown and bubbly.
