Marinated Peppers and Eggplant
Part of what makes these marinated peppers and eggplant so delicious is the involved process they go through to get to their seemingly simple final state. In her book, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, Judy Rodgers suggests that the chef’s eternal quest is to make the simplest process more difficult: “Stop, think, there must be a harder way,” she writes. There are easier ways to make peppers and eggplant, but once you taste this version, it’s hard to go back. If you like, make them the day before and let the vegetables marinate overnight.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Char the peppers on all sides on a medium-hot grill, or on the burners of a gas stove, or in the broiler, until all sides are just blackened (you want to char the skin of the peppers without burning the flesh underneath). Place the peppers in a large paper bag, close it tightly, and let them steam at least 15 minutes. (They sometimes leak, so put the closed bag on a plate.)
Step 2
Meanwhile, cut the stems from the eggplants and discard. Like many vegetables,eggplants vary widely in size and shape, so you’ll need to use your judgement as you cut them. The goal is to achieve pieces that are roughly the same size, around 2 inches long and 1/4-inch thick, and that show off the natural curve of the eggplant. To begin, cut 1/4-inch slices lengthwise. (Do not cut the eggplant into circles.) If your eggplants are very small, you may be able to stop after this lengthwise slicing. If they’re larger, you’ll need to cut them again. Place them flat on your cutting board and slice in half across the diagonal. When you’re satisfied with your slices, score them shallowly on both sides with a knife (make a cross-hatch of very shallow cuts to increase surface area), sprinkle each with 1/4 teaspoon salt, and let them sit 10 minutes. Use paper towels to blot the water that beads on their surfaces.
Step 3
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and wait 1 minute. Carefully place some of the eggplant in the pan. (The eggplant shouldn’t be crowded; do this in batches or in two large pans.) Drizzle another tablespoon or two of olive oil into the pan, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. If the pan is smoking or the eggplant starts to burn, turn the heat down. Turn the eggplant over, and cook another 2 to 3 minutes, on the second side, until tender and golden. Remove the eggplant to a platter or baking sheet lined with paper towels. Continue until all the eggplant is cooked.
Step 4
Open the bag of roasted peppers, and let them cool slightly. Peel each one carefully. Do not run them under water or you will lose all their delicious juices. Work over a strainer set in a bowl to catch the juices. Tear the peppers in half lengthwise, along their natural seam, and remove the seeds and membranes. Cut or tear the peppers into 1-inch-thick strips. Set them aside in the reserved juices.
Step 5
Wipe out the eggplant pan, and return it to the stove over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, and sauté the red onion and thyme about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, cook a few more minutes, and then add the peppers and their juices to the pan. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper, and cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the peppers have caramelized slightly.
Step 6
Transfer the peppers and onions to a shallow nonaluminum dish. Add the two vinegars to the pan, and reduce by half over low heat. Turn off the heat, and swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the oil and vinegar over the peppers. Toss well to combine the flavors.
Step 7
Gently toss the eggplant and peppers together and taste for seasoning.
