Macaroni and Cheese
You might imagine that this dish was a modern creation, but its history dates back to the 1700s, when dried macaroni—one of the few staples that could survive a year aboard ship—was brought from Italy to Britain and to the American colonies. Because there was a lack of other (Italian) ingredients, the imported pasta would often be served with a simple white sauce—milk thickened with flour and butter; sometimes it was baked in a casserole with bread crumbs on top. The earliest recorded recipe was in the Boston Cooking School Cookbook in 1896. This recipe uses a classic variation of béchamel known as sauce Mornay, made by whisking the flour into sautéed onions to form the roux (which is what thickens the sauce; see page 62 for more); then milk is added and the sauce is left to simmer until thick and creamy. Grated cheese is the final touch. Béchamel—and any sauce where flour is used as a thickener—is typically cooked for about 30 minutes to give the starch molecules in the flour enough time to absorb as much liquid as possible (so the flour goes from being granular to smooth, or gelatinized). In this recipe, the sauce is simmered for a much shorter time, since it will continue to cook in the oven after being stirred into the dish. For variety, top some or all of the servings with thin slices of roasted tomato and fresh thyme.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 8
Ingredients
For pasta
For bread crumbs
For sauce and cheese topping
For topping (optional)
Preparation
Step 1
Heat oven and boil pasta Heat oven to 375°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add salt generously and cook pasta 2 to 3 minutes less than manufacturer’s instructions (the outside should be cooked but the inside underdone). Transfer to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.
Step 2
Meanwhile, make bread crumbs Tear bread into large pieces and pulse a few times in a food processor to form very large crumbs. Transfer to a bowl, and add melted butter. Toss to evenly coat.
Step 3
Prepare baking dishes Butter eight 6-ounce shallow baking dishes or a 1 1/2-quart baking dish.
Step 4
Make cheese sauce Melt butter in a 4-quart pot over medium heat, then sweat onion until translucent, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until bubbling but not browning, about 45 seconds. Add milk and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer, stirring with a wooden spoon (scrape across the bottom and around edge of pot to prevent scorching), until thickened, about 4 minutes. Add fontina, 2/3 cup grated Gruyère, 1 2/3 cups grated Cheddar, and 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, stirring until completely melted and sauce is smooth. Season with salt and pepper, add cayenne and nutmeg, and stir to combine.
Step 5
Assemble and add cheese topping Add pasta to sauce and stir to thoroughly combine. Pour into prepared baking dishes and sprinkle evenly with the reserved cheeses, followed by the bread crumbs. If using, top with roasted tomato slices and thyme.
Step 6
Bake Place dishes on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until bubbling and cheese is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.
SLOW-ROASTED TOMATO SLICES
Step 7
Cut 6 small tomatoes into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (about 24 total) and arrange in a single layer on rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and season with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves. Roast at 400°F until softened and browned in spots, about 20 minutes. Let cool before storing.
Ingredients
Step 8
Using a variety of cheeses offers the best balance of flavors. If you want to substitute those suggested below with others, consider their flavors and melting qualities. Combine pungent cheeses, such as sharp Cheddar and Gruyère, with milder ones like fontina or Monterey Jack, then add Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano for extra bite.
Step 9
A good Italian brand of dried elbow macaroni will have the best consistency. Undercook your pasta so that it is the slightest bit crunchy in the center, then rinse it under cold water. This stops the cooking and washes off the extra starch, which, contrary to what you might think, is not useful in thickening the casserole; instead, as it bakes, that extra starch merely expands and lends a mealy texture to the sauce.
