Lemon Semifreddo
This is the dessert for lemon lovers. It’s light, but supersaturated with lemon flavor. Semifreddo usually refers to a dessert that’s partially frozen, but this cake layered with lightened lemon curd was christened “semifreddo” by the Italian American chef at the time at Chez Panisse. I don’t know about you, but I find it pretty hard to win an argument with an Italian, so I let the name stick. I based this recipe on the lemon semifreddo that one of my colleagues, Linda Zagula, made at the restaurant. It was not only popular with the customers, but with me, too—I couldn’t resist sneaking a mouthful every so often. And from the scraped-clean spoons I’d find hidden in the pastry fridge after all the guests had gone home, I knew I wasn’t the only one.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 8 servings
Ingredients
Lemon Curd
Lemon Syrup
Preparation
Step 1
To make the lemon curd, in a medium nonreactive saucepan over low heat, combine the 1/2 cup (125 ml) lemon juice, 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar, and the butter. Set a mesh strainer over a medium bowl.
Step 2
In another medium bowl, briefly whisk together the eggs and egg yolks. When the butter has melted, whisk some of the warm liquid from the saucepan into the eggs, whisking constantly as you pour, then stir the egg mixture into the saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until the curd starts to thicken and looks slightly jelled. Don’t let the mixture boil.
Step 3
Pour the lemon curd through the strainer set over the bowl. Cover, let cool, then refrigerate until chilled.
Step 4
To make the lemon syrup, in a small nonreactive saucepan, warm the water and 1/3 cup (65 g) sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, then stir in the 1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice and the kirsch. Let cool completely.
Step 5
To assemble the semifreddo, remove the parchment paper from the sponge cake and cut out 2 pieces of cake that will each fit in the bottom of a 2-quart (2-liter) baking dish. (You will have extra sponge cake left over that can be frozen for future use.)
Step 6
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled lemon curd.
Step 7
Spread 1 cup (250 ml) of the lemon cream mixture evenly in the bottom of the baking dish. Place one of the cake pieces on top and brush evenly with about 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the lemon syrup.
Step 8
Spread 1 cup (250 ml) of the lemon cream evenly on top of the first cake layer and sprinkle with two-thirds of the amaretti crumbs. Lay the second piece of cake on top and brush evenly with the remaining lemon syrup. Spread the remaining lemon cream in an even layer over the top and refrigerate, uncovered, for about 30 minutes to firm up the top layer of lemon cream. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.
Step 9
When ready to serve, sprinkle the remaining amaretti crumbs over the top. Cut the semifreddo into neat rectangles.
Serving
Step 10
Set individual servings of semifreddo in a pool of Raspberry Sauce (page 246), Blackberry Sauce (page 248), or Strawberry Sauce (page 248). Or, accompany with a mixture of your favorite berries, lightly sugared and left to sit for a while until juicy.
Storage
Step 11
The semifreddo is best served the next day, which gives the flavors time to meld. It will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. You can make the lemon curd up to 5 days in advance and keep it chilled until ready to use.
Variation
Step 12
You can use Meyer lemons, which are sweeter than regular lemons, but decrease the amount of sugar in the lemon curd by 1/4 cup (50 g). If time-pressed, substitute store-bought ladyfingers for the sponge cake.
tip
Step 13
Rather than make your own amaretti cookies, you can purchase them in stores specializing in Italian products and well-stocked supermarkets. The most popular brand is Amaretti di Saronno, packaged in a distinctive red tin.
