Lamb Osso Buco with Shell Bean Ragoût, Haricots Verts, and Tapenade
This was one of our first Sunday suppers at Lucques. It’s a variation on the classic osso buco, which is traditionally made with veal shanks. I use the same technique, but for this lighter summer version I braise the lamb shanks in white wine and a combination of veal and chicken stock (as opposed to straight veal stock). The tender shanks are a rich counterpoint to the freshness of the shell beans and crunch of the haricots verts. Ask your butcher for lamb osso buco, but if you can’t find it you can use lamb shanks.
You can braise the lamb a day or even two before serving. Just remember to marinate it one day before you braise. You can also cook the shell beans and blanch the haricots verts in advance; just wait to sauté them for the ragoût until right before serving. The tapenade can be made a few hours ahead as well.
Ingredients
Haricots verts and fresh shell bean ragoût
Tapenade
Preparation
Step 1
Toss the lamb osso buco in a large bowl with the crushed garlic, lemon zest, thyme leaves, rosemary leaves, cracked black pepper, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.
Step 2
Remove the lamb from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking so it comes to room temperature. After 30 minutes, season the meat generously with salt. Reserve the garlic and any excess herbs that fall off the lamb.
Step 3
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Step 4
Heat a large Dutch oven over high heat for 3 minutes. Pour in the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait a minute or two, until the pan is very hot, almost smoking. Place the osso buco in the pan, and sear on all sides until nicely browned. Depending on the size of your pan, you might have to sear he meat in batches. (Do not crowd the meat or get lazy or rushed at this step. It’s very important that the meat sear to a deep golden brown on all sides. This will probably take a good 15 to 20 minutes.) When the shanks are nicely browned, transfer them to a braising pan. They should sit flat, bones standing up, in one layer.
Step 5
Turn the heat under the Dutch oven down to medium, and add the onion, fennel, carrot, thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and reserved garlic and herbs. Stir often with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits in the pan. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables just begin to caramelize. Add the white wine, turn the heat to high, and reduce the liquid by half.
Step 6
Add the stocks and bring to a boil. Pour the liquid over the shanks, scraping any of the vegetables that have fallen on the meat back into the liquid. The stock mixture should almost cover the meat. Tuck the parsley sprigs into the broth around the lamb. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Braise in the oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
Step 7
To check the lamb for doneness, carefully remove the lid and foil and pierce a piece of meat with a paring knife. When the meat is done, it will yield easily to the knife. Taste a piece if you’re not sure.
Step 8
Turn the oven up to 400°F.
Step 9
Carefully transfer the lamb osso buco to a baking sheet and return them to the oven to brown for 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 10
Strain the broth into a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables with a ladle to extract all their juices. Skim the fat from the braising juices. If necessary, reduce the broth over medium-high heat to thicken slightly. Taste for seasoning.
Step 11
Arrange the hot haricots verts and fresh shell bean ragoût on a largewarm platter. Place the lamb osso buco over the beans, and spoon lots of the braising juices over them. Spoon some tapenade over each lamb shank, and serve the rest at the table.
Haricots verts and fresh shell bean ragoût: To cook fresh shell beans
Step 12
For each type of bean, heat a small or medium saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Swirl 2 tablespoons olive oil into each pan and divide the onion, garlic, and 2 teaspoons thyme between them. Sauté over medium heat about 5 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the shell beans (again, cooking each variety separately), and cook a few minutes, stirring to coat them in the oil. Add salt and water to cover by 2 inches. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the beans are just tender. (The cooking time will really depend on the beans. Taste one to see if it’s done.) Remove from the heat, and cool the beans in the cooking liquid.
To make the ragoût
Step 13
While the beans are cooking, blanch the haricots verts in a large pot of salted boiling water 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but still al dente. Transfer the haricots verts to a baking sheet to cool.
Step 14
Drain the shell beans, reserving their cooking liquid.
Step 15
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil, and add the haricots verts, diced shallot, and remaining 1 teaspoon thyme to the pan. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and some pepper. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, tossing to coat the haricots verts in the shallot mixture. Add the shell beans, and stir gently, being careful not to crush the beans. Add about 1/2 cup (or a little more if you like) shell bean liquid to moisten the ragoût. Taste for seasoning, and cook a few minutes, until the beans are hot. Toss in the basil and chopped parsley at the last minute.
Tapenade
Step 16
Chop two-thirds of the olives coarsely, and chop the remaining third finely.
Step 17
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, anchovy, and half the capers to a paste. Stir in the olives, remaining capers, parsley, and olive oil. Season with a squeeze of lemon, to taste.
