Hunkar Begendi
I’d heard of hunkar begendi and even tried it in Turkish restaurants elsewhere before I went to Istanbul, but I was not prepared for the reverence it inspires. Not only is this dish delicious—its name means “Sultan’s Delight”—but its appearance causes a hush to fall over a table. This is great stuff, a creamy, eggplant-laced béchamel topped with tender braised lamb. It’s a fair amount of work, but worth it.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 4 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Combine 1 tablespoon of the butter with the olive oil in a large deep skillet or flameproof casserole with a lid and place over medium-high heat.When the butter foam subsides, add the chunks of meat, sprinkling them with salt and pepper as they brown. When the pieces are deeply browned, at least 10 minutes, transfer to a plate; pour or spoon off any excess fat.
Step 2
Add the onion and garlic, along with some more salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and about 1 cup water and bring to a boil; cover, then adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily. Cook, adding a little more water if necessary, until the lamb is perfectly tender, at least an hour. When done, the mixture should be moist but not soupy; cook out some of the liquid if necessary. (This portion of the recipe can be done in advance; cover and refrigerate for up to a day before proceeding if you like.)
Step 3
Meanwhile, start a charcoal or gas grill or preheat the oven to 500°F. Prick the eggplant all over with a thin-bladed knife (they might explode otherwise) and grill or roast, giving quarter turns as they blacken, until completely collapsed, 15 to 30 minutes. When the eggplant is done, use a towel to hold it by its stem and a sharp knife to peel off the skin. Put the pulp, less as many seeds as you can do away with easily, into a bowl with the lemon juice.
Step 4
Put the remaining butter in a 1-quart (approximately) saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour a bit at a time until the mixture is well blended. Then continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture browns a bit. Add the milk a bit at a time, stirring (or, better still, whisking) after each addition to keep the mixture smooth. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring almost constantly, until the sauce is thick, 5 to 10 minutes.
Step 5
When the eggplant is cooled, put it in a colander or strainer and squeeze it with your hands to remove as much excess water as possible and to break it up. Put it in another bowl and mash it with a fork until very smooth, then combine it with the sauce, beating with a wooden spoon until quite smooth. Put in a saucepan and reheat, then turn the heat to a minimum and stir in the cheese. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Put a puddle of the eggplant sauce on each plate, then top with a portion of the lamb. Serve immediately, with the lemon wedges.
