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Hoss’s Rabbit ‘n’ Dumplin’s

This may be the all-time favorite Bayona family meal, created by Greg Collier, aka “Hoss,” one of my all-time favorite sous chefs (he’s now executive chef of Redfish Grill, which is also in the French Quarter). Hoss adapted his family’s chicken and dumplin’ recipe, and the staff still clamors for it whenever there’s a chill in the air. This recipe takes a little time, but it’s worth it. For this preparation, the “dumplin’s” are baked atop a thickened stew (rather than boiled or steamed in broth). Because we use mainly the hind legs and backstrap, or tenders, of the rabbit for the menu, we end up with lots of forelegs and breast meat to use for other things, such as sausage, confit, and crew food. (Naturally, we use the bones to make stock.) You can prepare the meat and stew up to a day ahead, then reheat gently and bake it with the dumplin’s. If you just can’t eat bunnies, chicken may be substituted.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 6 servings

Ingredients

Rabbit

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
6 hind legs of rabbit, or 6 whole chicken legs
Salt and pepper
3 cups Chicken Stock (p. 206)
Bouquet Garni (p. 145)
1 onion, quartered and pierced with 2 whole cloves

Stew

2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
2 medium turnips, peeled and diced
2 medium carrots, peeled, split lengthwise, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 onion, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
4 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
4 cups stock from cooking the rabbit
Bouquet Garni (p. 145)
Cooked rabbit meat
Salt and pepper
Dumplin’ dough

Dumplin’s

1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten with a fork
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup milk
Black pepper

Preparation

  1. Rabbit

    Step 1

    Heat the oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Season the rabbit well with salt and pepper and sear it in the hot pan, turning to brown on all sides. For the best results, don’t overcrowd the pan, and try not to fuss with the pieces until they have a chance to brown. Pour off the excess oil and add the Chicken Stock, Bouquet Garni, and onion. Add enough water to just cover the rabbit and bring it to a boil. Cover the pan. Reduce the heat and let it simmer, either on top of the stove or in a 350°F oven, turning the meat once or twice, until rabbit is tender and coming away from the bone, about 40 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, cool, and strain the stock, reserving it. You should have 4 cups; add additional Chicken Stock if necessary. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pick it off the bones and set aside. Discard the bones.

  2. Stew

    Step 2

    Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Step 3

    Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed ovenproof pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the turnips, carrots, onion, and celery and cook for about 7 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, and sage, then sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, for 2–3 minutes. Whisk in the milk, add 1 cup of the stock, and bring to a boil. Whisk in the remaining stock and add the Bouquet Garni. Return the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat. Add the rabbit meat and a little salt and simmer gently, stirring from time to time, about 12 minutes, until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a paring knife. Meanwhile, make the dumplin’ dough. Remove the stew from the heat, taste and season as needed with salt and pepper.

    Step 4

    Drop spoonfuls of dumplin’ dough onto the surface of the stew. Place the pot in the oven and bake, uncovered, for 12–15 minutes, until dumplin’s are golden brown.

  3. Dumplin’s

    Step 5

    Mix the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Beat the egg, butter, onion, and milk together in a large bowl. Stir the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until a sticky batter forms. Grind in a little black pepper.

From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf. Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook. Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.
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