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Hen and Dumplings

A laying hen is a different animal from the six- to ten-week-old supermarket fryers, roasters, and broilers we usually see. Laying hens are typically sold between one and three years old and create a different sort of stew, deeper in overall flavor but with less succulent meat. If you are using a laying hen, increase the cooking time to about an hour and a half, or until the meat is very tender. It will not be necessary to remove the breast meat during cooking as directed below.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 6 to 8, with leftovers

Ingredients

Stew

1 (4-pound) chicken with neck, gizzard, and heart
3 medium carrots
3 celery stalks
1 small onion, halved
1 head of garlic, unpeeled, cut in half crosswise
2 dried bay leaves
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 large leek, white and green parts cut into a medium dice and washed, green top washed and reserved
About 20 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley, stems reserved and leaves chopped (2 tablespoons) for garnish
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream

Dumplings

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
1/2 cup buttermilk
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives

Garnish

1 small bunch of fresh chives, cut into 3/4-inch batons
Freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the chicken, neck, gizzard, and heart in a 6-quart heavy pot. Cover with 3 quarts cold water and bring to a simmer over high heat. As the water approaches simmering, begin to skim away any fat or scum. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes while continuing to skim. Add 1 of the carrots, 1 of the celery stalks, the onion, garlic, bay leaves, 1 tablespoon salt, and the peppercorns. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.

    Step 2

    Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. After letting it cool for a few minutes, cut off the breast meat, which ideally should be just done and still slightly pink at the bone. Set the meat aside and return the rest of the chicken to the pot. Simmer gently for 20 minutes over low heat. Add the dark green top of the leek and the parsley stems to the pot, and simmer for 10 minutes.

    Step 3

    While the chicken is cooking, dice the remaining 2 carrots and 2 celery stalks.

    Step 4

    Remove the legs from the chicken and reserve. Strain the broth—you will have about 2 quarts. Discard the vegetables and bones. Rinse out the pot and pour the broth back into it (off the heat).

    Step 5

    Prepare the dumpling batter: Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, buttermilk, and butter. Add the wet ingredients to the dry. Mix well with a wooden spoon, and then stir in the parsley and chives.

    Step 6

    When the chicken legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and pick the meat off the bone. Gently tear it into bite-size chunks. Repeat with the reserved breast meat, and set all the chicken meat aside.

    Step 7

    Bring the broth to a boil over high heat and add the diced carrots, celery, and leek and the wine. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 4 minutes, until the vegetables are slightly softened. Add the cream and chicken and bring back to a simmer. Check the seasoning and adjust as necessary.

    Step 8

    Using two teaspoons, form dumplings and drop them into the simmering stew, spreading them out. Towards the end of the process, the pot may begin to seem crowded; give it a gentle stir as necessary. When all the dumplings are in the stew, give it another stir, flipping over any dumplings that are not submerged. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley and the chives, and serve with freshly ground pepper.

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