Hawaiian Snapper with Green Rice and Cucumbers in Crème Fraîche

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Season the fish with the lemon zest, thyme, and parsley. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

   Step 2

   Take the fish out of the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking to bring it to room temperature.

   Step 3

   Cut a small piece of cucumber, taste it, and decide if it needs to be peeled and seeded (see Summer Market Report, page 119). If necessary, slice the cucumbers in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut the cucumbers into thin crosswise slices, on the diagonal. Toss the cucumbers with 1 teaspoon salt, and let sit 10 minutes.

   Step 4

   Toast the cumin seeds in a small pan over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, until the seeds release their aroma and darken slightly. Use a mortar and pestle to crush them coarsely.

   Step 5

   Drain the cucumbers for a few minutes, and then pat them dry with paper towels. Toss the cucumbers in a bowl with the crème fraîche, garlic, shallot, preserved lemon and juice, cumin, cayenne, and a pinch of pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning. The sauce should be assertive and have a nice kick to it. If not, add more cayenne. Gently stir in the mint.

   Step 6

   Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches.) Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, skin side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is crispy. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a couple more minutes, until the snapper is just cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it’s done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little; the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a little more when you take it out of the pan.

   Step 7

   Transfer the hot rice to a large warm platter. Spoon two-thirds of the cucumbers over the rice, and scatter the watercress over both. Arrange the fish on top, and season with lots of lemon juice and a drizzle of super-good olive oil. Spoon the remaining cucumbers over the fish, and garnish with the cilantro sprigs.

2. Green Rice

   Step 8

   Bring the chicken stock and 1 1/4 cups water to a boil in a medium pot, and then turn off the heat.

   Step 9

   Place the parsley, mint, chives, and cilantro in a blender. Add 1 cup of the hot liquid, and purée the herbs on medium speed. Pour in the rest of the liquid slowly, and purée on high speed for almost 2 minutes, until you have a very smooth, very green broth.

   Step 10

   Toast the fennel seeds in a small pan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until they release their aroma and turn light golden brown. Pound them with a mortar and pestle.

   Step 11

   Quickly rinse out the chicken stock pot and heat it over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the olive oil, diced fennel and onion, toasted fennel seeds, chile, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion and fennel are translucent. Add the rice, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Stir well to coat the rice with the oil and vegetables. Add the herb broth and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to a low simmer. Add the butter, cover, and cook the rice 15 to 20 minutes, until tender. Turn off the heat, and leave the rice covered for 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork and taste for seasoning.

3. Note

   Step 12

   Season the fish with the lemon zest and herbs at least 4 hours before serving. You can make the green rice ahead and rewarm it in the oven. For the cucumbers in crème fraîche, you can mix the crème fraîche with all the seasonings except the mint ahead of time. Just before serving, salt the cucumbers and toss them with the crème fraîche mixture and mint.