Hamburgers with Sel Gris
There is only one ingredient that is used in every burger recipe. It is not the all-beef patty (burgers can be made from pork, ostrich, bison, portobello, soy, lamb, turkey); it’s not the sesame seed bun (there is baguette, millet loaf, no bun at all); it’s not the special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions, etcetera, etcetera. All are optional. It’s salt. You cannot make a great burger without it. I’ve never seen a recipe that didn’t call for anywhere from a pinch to a teaspoon. Yet rarely if ever does a recipe name specifically which salt might be the best one for the job. Salt should improve a burger in three ways. It should expand the fullness and complexity of the meat’s own flavor by lending complementary mineral depth. It should produce a layering of flavors, presenting more or less of itself unpredictably with every bite. It should lend a crunch of texture that calls attention to itself by contrasting with the succulence of the meat and signaling the flavor dynamics of the sandwich to your mind and your palate. In other words, it should do its work, do it in a disciplined manner, and communicate the work it has done effectively. Sel gris is chunky, moist, and packed with fresh minerals—perfect for the job.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Light the grill for medium direct heat (about 400°F).
Step 2
Using your hands, mix together the ground beef, ice water, oil, garlic, scallions and pepper in a bowl until well blended; avoid overmixing.
Step 3
To form the patties, fold in 3 two-finger pinches of salt, and divide the beef mixture into six parts. Using a light touch, form six patties each no more than 1 inch thick. The patties should barely hold together.
Step 4
Brush the grill grate thoroughly with a wire brush to clean it, and coat it lightly with oil. Grill the burgers directly over the heat for 6 to 7 minutes for medium, turning once.
Step 5
To toast the buns, grill them, cut sides down, directly over the heat for 1 to 2 minutes.
Step 6
If serving immediately, transfer the patties right from the grill to the buns. If the burgers will sit, even for a few minutes, keep the burgers and buns separate until just before serving.
Step 7
Just before serving, sprinkle each burger with the remaining salt, or, alternately, serve with a dish of sel gris at the table for diners to pinch from.
