Grilled Skirt Steak with Artichoke-Potato Hash and Black Olive Aïoli
Skirt steak is among those cuts of beef that a novice cook sometimes avoids, despite their excellent flavor and reasonable price. But few steaks will be more delicious when properly cooked, and I assure you it’s not hard to get right. With skirt steak, remember a few key points. Start by caramelizing it well on the hottest part of the grill. Then move it over to a cooler spot to finish cooking just to medium-rare. Any less cooked, and it’s chewy; any more than medium, and it becomes leathery, livery, and tough. Be sure to let the skirt steak rest a few minutes before slicing it. The most crucial thing of all is to slice the meat against the grain to ensure that it’s tender and not rubbery. Though mayonnaise might sound strange as an accompaniment for steak, the aïoli melts into a creamy sauce, leaving behind a trail of olives.
Ingredients
Black olive aïoli
Preparation
Step 1
Trim the skirt steak of excess fat and sinew, if any (it doesn’t usually need much trimming). Season the skirt steak with the sliced chiles, cracked black pepper, rosemary, and thyme leaves. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Step 2
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Step 3
Toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon salt. Place in a roasting pan, cover with aluminum foil, and roast about 45 minutes, until tender when pierced. (Depending on the size, age, and variety of potatoes, cooking time will vary.)
Step 4
While the potatoes are roasting, prepare the artichokes. Cut off the top third of the artichokes, and remove the tough outer leaves, down to the pale yellowgreen leaves. Using a paring knife, trim the bottom of the stem and the stalks. Cut each artichoke in half and remove the fuzzy choke if there is one. (If you clean the artichokes ahead of time, immerse them in a bowl of cold water with the juice of one lemon added, to prevent them from turning brown. Be sure to drain and dry them well before cooking.)
Step 5
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Pour a cup olive oil into the pan, and wait a minute. Add the artichokes, and season with 1 teaspoon thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Turn the heat to medium, and sauté about 10 minutes, tossing often, until the artichokes are golden brown. (If the pan seems dry, add another tablespoon or two of olive oil.)
Step 6
When the potatoes have cooled, crumble them into chunky pieces. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of its skin and set aside.
Step 7
Wipe out the artichoke pan and return it to the stove over high heat, for 2 minutes. (To get the potatoes nicely browned and crisp, don’t overcrowd them. You may have to use two pans or do it in batches.) Swirl in the remaining a cup olive oil and wait a minute. Add the crumbled potatoes, and season with the remaining 2 teaspoons thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Cook until the potatoes are crispy on one side. (Don’t try to move them or turn them if they are stuck to the pan; they will eventually release themselves, just be patient.) After about 8 minutes, when they’ve browned nicely on the first side, turn the potatoes in the oil, letting them color on all sides.
Step 8
When the potatoes are golden brown, turn the heat down to medium and add the shallots, artichokes, and roasted garlic. Toss well, and sauté the hash together 5 to 6 minutes, until the artichokes are hot and the shallots are translucent. Toss in the chopped parsley just before serving.
Step 9
Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking, and remove the steak from the refrigerator so it reaches room temperature by the time you’re ready to grill it.
Step 10
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season the steak generously with salt, and brush it lightly with olive oil. Place the meat on the hottest part of the grill, to get a nice sear on the outside. Cook about 2 minutes, turn the meat a quarter-turn, and cook another minute. Turn the meat over, and move it to a cooler spot on the grill. Cook another minute or two for medium-rare. Rest the steak on a wire rack set over a baking sheet for a few minutes.
Step 11
Arrange the artichoke-potato hash on a large warm platter, and scatter the arugula leaves over the top. Slice the steak against the grain, and lay the slices over the potatoes and artichokes. Spoon some of the black olive aïoli over the meat, and pass the rest at the table.
Black olive aïoli
Step 12
Place the egg yolk in a stainless steel bowl. Begin whisking in the grapeseed oil drop by drop, as slowly as you can bear. Continue in this manner, following with the olive oil, as the mixture thickens. Once the mayonnaise has emulsified, add the remaining oil in a slow steady stream, whisking all the time. If the mixture gets too thick and is difficult to whisk, add a drop or two of water.
Step 13
Pound the garlic with 1/4 teaspoon salt in a mortar. Add half the olives and pound to a paste. Roughly chop the remaining olives.
Step 14
Fold the garlic-olive paste and the chopped olives into the mayonnaise. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt, a squeeze of lemon juice, and the cayenne pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning. If the aïoli seems thick and gloppy, thin it with a little water; this will also make it creamier.
Note
Step 15
Season the steak with the chiles, pepper, and herbs the night before cooking. You can roast the potatoes and sauté the artichokes ahead of time. Sauté them together to make the hash just before serving; the hash can sit in the pan while you finish the steaks. You can make the aïoli a few hours ahead as well.
