Grilled Bluefish Wrapped in Pancetta with Yellow Tomato Sauce and Aïoli
I first discovered bluefish when I was working at Angels, a restaurant in Providence. I was fresh off the boat from California when Jamie, the chef, and Eileen, his sous-chef, began introducing me to all the local food specialties. First they took me to a salumeria on Federal Hill, the Italian district of Providence, where the prosciutto was called “prah-jhute” and ricotta was “rha-got.” Then one day they brought in smoked bluefish. We piled it high on crusty Italian rolls, and topped it with sliced red onions, lemon, and way too much crème fraîche. I was in Rhode Island heaven. In honor of that beguiling and unforgettable fish, here I wrap fresh bluefish in pancetta to give the fish a salty, smoked flavor. Served with a yellow tomato sauce, juicy slices of heirloom tomatoes, and garlicky aïoli, this is my tribute to summer in Rhode Island.
Ingredients
Yellow Tomato Sauce
Preparation
Step 1
Season the fish with the lemon zest, the thyme, and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Wrap each fillet with a piece of pancetta, spiraling the meat around the fish like the stripe on a candy cane. Cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours. Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking to bring it back to room temperature.
Step 2
Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking.
Step 3
Cut the heirloom tomatoes horizontally into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Season with the fleur de sel and pepper. Drizzle with the super-good olive oil and red wine vinegar. Scatter the shallot, opal basil, and the remaining tablespoon chopped parsley over the tomatoes. Let them marinate while you grill the fish.
Step 4
When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, season the bluefish fillets lightly with salt and pepper, and brush them with a little olive oil. Grill the fish 3 to 4 minutes on the first side, rotating once or twice, until the pancetta is crispy. Turn the fish over, and cook another few minutes, until just cooked through.
Step 5
Spoon the hot yellow tomato sauce onto a large warm platter, and arrange the tomato slices on top, overlapping them slightly. Place the fish on the platter, squeeze lemon juice over the top, and dollop each piece of bluefish with aïoli. Pass the remaining aïoli at the table.
Yellow Tomato Sauce
Step 6
Blanch the yellow tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds. Cool the tomatoes in a bowl of ice water a few minutes, and then use your fingers to slip off their skins. Remove the cores, and cut each tomato in half horizontally. Squeeze the tomato halves, cut side down, over a strainer set in a bowl. Scoop the seeds out with your fingers and discard them. Chop the tomatoes coarsely and reserve the juice.
Step 7
Heat a medium saucepan over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in the olive oil, and heat another minute. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and sauté 3 to 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the chopped tomatoes and their juice. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook 6 to 8 minutes over medium-low heat, until the tomatoes are softened but not completely cooked. Remove from the heat, stir in the basil sprigs, and taste for seasoning. Discard the basil sprigs just before serving.
Note
Step 8
Season the fish with herbs and wrap it in pancetta in the morning. You can make the tomato sauce earlier in the day and warm it up when you need it. The aïoli can also be prepared a few hours before serving.
