Cozze Piccanti Fredde

Preparation

1. Step 1

   In a large pot over a lively flame, bring the wine to a simmer and add the mussels, poaching them, and removing them to a large bowl as they open. When all the mussels have opened, reduce the cooking liquor to 3/4 cup and set it aside. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the flesh from the shells to a holding plate. Discard the shells.

   Step 2

   In a very large sauté pan over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and soften the garlic, taking care not to color it. Rinse the anchovies. Remove the anchovies’ heads and bones, dry on paper towels, and crush lightly with a fork. Add the anchovies and the chile, tossing them about in the oil for a minute or two before adding the mussels, the reduced cooking liquor, and the vinegar. Permit the mussels to simmer gently for a minute or two. Set the mussels aside to cool.

   Step 3

   When the mussels have cooled, transfer them to a large bowl, cover them tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. Toss with the parsley and present the mussels as an antipasto or a main dish with olive-oil-oven-toasted bread and cold white wine.

2. Notes

   Step 4

   These two recipes (page 75) from Napoli’s cucina povera are ministrations for the dispirited, dishes to stay the ogres. Conjured from almost nothing, yet giving forth perfumes of security and nostalgia, they promise comfort, they stimulate, revive, as might the flump of a cork being slipped from its bottle or a kiss, hung softly and low on the nape of the neck.